Saturday, January 8, 2011

King Louis XV’s Soupe à L'oignon Gratinée



Although the onion dates back to 3500 BC, legend has it that French onion soup was first made by King Louis XV of France, in the 1700’s. One night, with only onions, butter and champagne available in his sparse kitchen at the hunting lodge, he experimented with making a ‘stew’. Without King Louis’ hunger pang I wonder how long we would have waited before someone else invented this spectacular concoction!

Onion soup has actually been referred to as peasant food because onions have always been so cheap and widely available. It wasn’t typically made with champagne though! Water would have been used for the broth.

The dish regained popularity in North America in the 1960’s with the exploding interest in French cuisine. Probably due in part to the influence of American chef, author and television personality, Julia Child. It is said that she had French onion soup at her last meal before she died.

One of the most important steps in making French onion soup is to create a 'fond'. This is the brown bits on the bottom of the pot that forms when the sugars in the onions break down as they caramelize.

I like King Louis XV’s luxurious contribution to this French classic and so when I made my most recent batch at the beginning of this week, I reached for the bubbly! He was right. Definitely a soup fit for a king.

Here is my take on the french classic.

King Louis XV’s Soupe à L'oignon Gratinée
Adapted from recipes by King Louis XV of France, Julia Child, Cook's Illustrated and just about every other 'expert' on French Onion Soup over the past 300+ years.


Serves 6.


8 cups of sliced yellow onions

¼ cup unsalted butter

3 cloves minced garlic

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 ½ cup champagne or prosecco

7 cups beef broth

1 bay leaf

5 sprigs of thyme

salt and pepper to taste

baguette slices, ½-inch thick

2 cups grated Gruyère cheese (approx. 4 tablespoons per bowl)

6 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (approx. 1 tablespoon per bowl)

6 tablespoons Mozzarella cheese (approx. 1 tablespoon per bowl)


Cut onions in half length-wise and then thinly slice each half. Melt butter in a heavy bottomed Dutch oven. Add onions and garlic and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally for about 20 minutes. This process is called ‘sweating’. It is key to release the onion’s excess moisture before beginning the caramelization process.


Stir in sugar and salt. Cook slowly stirring frequently, until onions are a deep, rich caramel brown. This can take at least an hour for complex aromatic flavours. As the ‘fond’ forms on the bottom of the pot, watch that the onions do not over caramelize. You can add some water to deglaze and even out the colour as you continue to strive for a deep dark brown. You may find that you need to adjust the heat up and down as you work this part of the process.




Add the flour and stir. Cook for a few minutes so the flour is no longer raw.

Add in your champagne (or prosecco) and bring to a boil. Then add your beef broth, bay leaf, and sprigs of fresh thyme. Simmer covered for about 30 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and the 5 thyme sprig twigs.

Taste, and adjust the salt and pepper accordingly.

Baguette slices can be toasted at 400ºF for 10 minutes to make them dry, crisp and lightly brown.

Ladle soup into French onion soup bowls (or oven-proof bowls). Cover surface area with baguette slices. Cover toasts with Gruyère, mozzarella, and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses. Place under broiler until cheese has melted and is lightly browned.



TIPS:
Letting the soup broth sit for a day allows the flavours to mature together.

If you do not have homemade beef stock, consider the beef stock made at the Glebe Meat Market on Bank Street. If you do use the beef stock in the tetrapak, reach for low-sodium.

The soup broth does freeze well.

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Æbleskivers filled with michaelsdolce™ Raspberry & Orange Jam



The Danish pancakes balls called æbleskivers can be served as a breakfast treat or dressed up as a dessert. My post back in May details the construction process and shares my favourite batter recipe.



I recently tried Michael Sunderland's michaelsdolce™ Raspberry & Orange Jam to fill the centers of my æbleskivers. (Because of this, I skipped putting vanilla extract in the batter.)

After the batter was in the pan for a minute, I dropped a half teaspoon of this bright, vibrant jam into the middle. Raspberry and orange are two of my favourite flavours.

When I served them up, I couldn't resist drizzling a wee bit more jam onto the warm morsels. Orange zest, chocolate shavings and a dusting of icing sugar prettied up the plate.



If you are considering buying an æbleskiver pan, I recommend going to CA Paradis in Old Ottawa South or Hendrix near the Ikea plaza. They both carry the cast-iron Lodge Pro Logic æbleskiver pan.

If you are looking to try the many michaelsdolce™ jams, you can find them at close to a dozen stores in Ottawa and also now at Pusateri's Avenue Road store in Toronto. Check out his gorgeous website.

Sonny's Drive-In Restaurant - Waterloo



A recent trip to Waterloo, Ontario had me taking in lunch at Sonny's Drive-In restaurant at 256 Weber Street North, steps from University Avenue. I suppose you are wondering how such a flashy roadside sign could draw me in for their dining experience. Well that sign looks like the very same one that I remember some 25+ years ago when late night noshes meant there was only one game in town.

Sonny's is approximately 3 kms from the residences at the University of Waterloo and for this crowd, a burger joint open until 3 am on the weekends is a good thing.

So for purely sentimental reasons, when I saw that beautiful sign while driving through town, I had to see if Sonny's still held the same cachet for me.



I showed up for lunch some time after 2 pm and was quite surprised at the crowd ahead of me, considering it was a Wednesday afternoon. Fish and chips seemed to be the popular choice. I ordered the typical hamburger ($3.39) and small fry ($2.69).

There is no seating in the establishment but they do have a long stand-up bar by their front window if you do want to eat in. Like the sign, it does not appear that much has changed inside either. (The place has been around for at least 40 years. But how much older than that, I really don't know.) This experience was pure nostalgia.



The burger patty was flame-broiled on the charcoal grill like I remembered but I am not sure these patties are home-made. I loved every bit of its decadence though. My burger tastes have definitely become more sophisticated. My new favourite burger is made from O'Brien Farm's hormone-free beef at Hintonburger back in Ottawa.



As for the fries, they were great. Cooked perfectly with a crisp outside and a soft meaty center. The small is an ample portion for me. In fact, I couldn't finish them.

It is definitely a cautious treat nowadays, considering all the calories that go with a burger and fries. Something we didn't think too much about back in the youthful student days.

The impulsive stop into Sonny's Drive-In was a charming trip down memory lane.

Sonny's Drive-In
256 Weber St N
Waterloo, Ontario
519.884.1750

Sun to Thurs: 10 am - 1 am
Fri to Sat: 10 am - 3 am

Sonny's Drive-In on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Edgar - Menu Board Obliteration - Again



I was pleased that I made it to Edgar on their very last day of 2010 (December 23). It was well into the afternoon so I did have some concern as to what might still be available. Although I waltzed in the door after 2 pm, I was lucky to squeeze a spot on the last stool by the bar at the front window. The place was still packed with a lunch crowd.

Marysol spoiled me with 3 little taster pots of her special soups of the day. They were all great but I had no problem choosing the Spicy Carrot and Red Lentil Soup.



I then moved on to a panini. The BBQ chicken breast with sauce and jalapeno peppers. It was messy and good. Hopefully I wasn't being watched in the front window. Marysol knows me to be a fork and knife gal for even the most basic of finger foods. I should have insisted for this one. Did I mention that it was so good?

Coffee is my crack. But whenever I go to Edgar, I feel the strong urge to indulge in a Cha Yi tea. And again I went for the Rooibos Safari.

And now for the very STRESSFUL part of my visit!

As I approached the treats counter to find a partner for my tea, it was clear that many people had been there before me. But there were still a few nice choices remaining. I spotted the brioche I knew I had to have. There were just two left. Third in line for attention, I patiently waited, hoping I wasn't being preceded by brioche lovers. The lady at the cash was stocking up on EVERYTHING it seemed and it made the wait long. Just as she was pulling her wallet (hallelujah!), I see her intersect my glance. She caught me staring at the brioche. Oh, it gets worse. Here I was waiting in line long enough to have eaten that brioche in my imagination. I had savoured very bite. Every crumb. Every morsel. And what does that super shopper do? She speaks softly to Marysol in French that SHE wants brioche too. I didn't catch all her words. My bilingual status is still iffy. Did she want one or two? I was feeling pretty threatened. After all, she was really stocking up. She looked like someone who might not be settling for just one. Marysol's tongs reached high up on the plate. I go pale. There goes the brioche I had just eaten with my eyes. I had picked between the two and she took my brioche. The gentleman between me and super shopper saw the whole thing go down and I wondered if it was enough to make him consider brioche for his treat. I had to know. I asked him outright (but politely!) if he thought he might like the last brioche. Thankfully he shakes his head no. Did I seem intimidating? Was he now too afraid to take it? Simon stepped in and rescued me from my over anticipation. My brioche went to the oven to put a bit of warmth right to its core. And then it was mine!

This is my second ever brioche from Edgar. Which, if you knew how often I have frequented, shows great restraint. It was stuffed with cranberries, pecans and zests of orange. The cinnamon and corn syrupy sweetness proved to be the perfect glue. The orange icing on top, a royal cape. So much for being 'Missy Fork and Knife'. I went right at this thing like I was ripping at a lobster. It was the perfect end to my last 2010 Edgar visit. And I had had the last Edgar brioche of the decade! All mine. It was the consummate partner for my Cha Yi Rooibos Safari tea! (Cha Yi is nearby at 61 rue Eddy in Hull, and my next destination stop.)



Marysol and Simon still had a few hours to go to serve the last of their clientele for the year. Those stragglers would be greeted by yet another obliterated Edgar menu board. I hope the Edgar holiday break was restful. I patiently wait their return on Saturday January 8.

Edgar
60 rue Bégin
Gatineau (Hull sector), Quebec
819.205.1110
www.chezedgar.ca
www.sheeatsbears.blogspot.com

Update to Brunch hours (effective Oct 1, 2011)
Wed to Fri: 10 am - 6:30 pm
Sat: 10 am - 5 pm (Brunch 10 am - 2 pm)
Sun: 9:30 am - 5 pm (Brunch 9:30 am - 2 pm)
Mon and Tues: Closed

Edgar on Urbanspoon

Millennium Dinner Time Capsuled



Yesterday was dedicated to culling our history in the basement. (This included the very emotional task of editing the vinyls.) As we fingered our way through the boxes, we came across our millennium time capsule haphazardly constructed 10 years ago. What a delight to come across our fancy menu plan and all the recipes from that evening.

We were 3 young families gathering for a progressive millennium celebration. The 7 adults (we had one out of town guest) and 6 children started at our home in the country on December 31st for the big dinner.

We then headed to Centrepointe for sleigh rides, skating, and the millennium countdown, complete with contraband champagne.

Then off to home number 2 in Kanata for the sleepover and breakfast party on January 1st. The afternoon activity was the viewing of Stuart Little at the AMC Theatres. I think most of the kids slept through this thriller. Just not enough sleep!

We disregarded their cue and moved on to home number 3 back in Ottawa for a top-notch Italian meal. The kids managed some pick-up hockey while many of the adults kept the wood burning fireplace well supervised.

We didn't make it back home until January 2nd!

Do you know what you ate for your millennium dinner some 10 years ago? Here is what we enjoyed.

Millennium Celebration
Friday, December 31, 1999

Sparkling Berry Punch
***
Baba Ganouj and Salsa with Tortilla Chips
Four Peppercorn Live Paté
Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto on Brie
Crab Dip
Scallop and Avocado Bruschetta
***
Leek and Watercress Consommé
***
Nicely Spiced Pork Loin
Mashed Potatoes with Roasted Garlic
Green Beans Noisette
Sesame Carrots
Bronze Roasted Onions
Dinner Rolls and Butter
Red Wine
***
Red and Green Salad with Sherry Vinaigrette
***
Chocolate Pavlova
Ice Wine
Coffee


Friday, December 24, 2010

Thirsting for Parisian Macarons



The Parisian macaron is a decadent confectionary that is synonymous with elegance. It is an irresistible combination of sweetness from the delicate, airy eggshell-like crust straight through to the rich ganache and jam fillings.

Finding a perfect macaron in Ottawa can be a bit of a treasure hunt. They are not mainstream fare. For some, a macaron is an undeniable craving. No need to be longing for the French patisserie, Ladurée to quench your ‘thirst’. Now there is a new game in town.

Urban Baking Co. has created a name for itself with its signature macarons, bursting in flavours of Red Boyne Raspberry, Dark Chocolate and Bartlett Pear & White Fig.



I am still too intimidated to serve my baking attempts at macarons. When it is perfection I want, I like to supplement my own dessert table with work from an expert. It is also a way to offer a gluten-free choice for my guests.

A home-based business located in Kanata, they have put together a beautiful Winter Collection of petit carrés and French macarons. Owner, Wendy Raoux, is Cordon Bleu trained. If you are looking for a special hostess or thank-you gift, you may be pleased with their choice and size of gift boxes.

My favourite? I go for the raspberry every time.

Urban Baking Co.
Call/text: 613-859-9838
E-mail: info@urbanbakingco.com
Tweet: @urbanbakingco
Link to: www.urbanbakingco.com

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Peanut Brittle - Is It Cheating to Make It in The Microwave?



I have friends who, without hesitation, will say that I am a bit of a type-A personality. I love organization and order. I love precision and will happily work to a high standard. That can imply that I HAVE to do things the RIGHT way. But in the kitchen, going with traditional methods at every turn is not one of my mantras.

For me, as long as I have a reasonable handle on the science, taking short-cuts or using time saving equipment can usually get me the same result as going the 'long' way.

When I tweeted out yesterday that I was knee-deep in my annual peanut brittle production, I let it slip that it was dead easy when you use the microwave. Well it appears that Jonathan Viau, aka @bigheartchef, decided to call me on my culinary heresy and shouted back "Cop out!" Lovingly, of course.

So why would I turn against my species and use a microwave for a candy that is so temperature sensitive? Well, because I do find it easier to push out the volume. I make each batch 1 1/2 pounds at a time. I find this most manageable. As a result, I made 8 batches reasonably quickly. (12 pounds of peanutty goodness to gift to family and friends!) I use my two 10-cup Pyrex bowls, cleaning one while the other was in service. Most importantly, I don't need to be at the pot for the full duration of the heating process, stirring away, waiting to hit 250ºF to put in the peanuts and then 300ºF for completion.

What I do need to know is that the sugar and corn syrup needs to be heated in the end to the 'hard crack' stage for candy, which is 300ºF. And I need to know that I am looking for a light amber colour on the sugar when it is heated. The baking soda will give it a light, crunchy texture and it will also give it colour. The vanilla will also darken it a bit. The vanilla and butter add flavour. Once I have poured my brittle out onto a well buttered pan, I tip the pan to have it spread and I will bang the pan as well to release any big bubbles that may have formed from the baking soda. If you like a very thin brittle, consider spreading or 'stretching' it with two forks pulling in opposite directions.

I use a silicon spatula to do my stirring. I also make sure everything is pre-measured before I begin as it all moves very quickly. Important to note, my microwave throws out 900 watts of power and based on this I was able to determine my times for each stage of the process. If you have a microwave with less power, you will need to increase the cooking times.

I have made peanut brittle the 'candy thermometer in pot' way but I do think making peanut brittle in the microwave is dead easy. If you do want to make peanut brittle and want to go the route of using a candy thermometer on the stove-top, you will find similar recipes that will have one additional ingredient - water. It helps the sugar melt evenly and by the time it is up to temperature, it will have almost all evaporated.

Now on to the recipe.



Microwave Peanut Brittle

1 cups sugar
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1 1/2 cups peanuts
2 tsp butter
3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon baking soda

In 10-cup Pyrex bowl combine sugar and corn syrup; stir. Cook at HIGH for 4 minutes. Stir, then add peanuts; stir well. Cook at HIGH for an additional 3 minutes; stir, add butter and vanilla, stir well. Cook at HIGH 1 1/4 minutes. Add baking soda; stir gently until light and foamy. Immediately pour mixture onto well buttered cookie sheet. Spread thinly. Cool completely; break into small pieces.

Thursday, December 9, 2010

I Am Going A Bit Nuts For Spicy Maple Pecans



Nuts are a popular treat at this time of year. They come in all shapes and sizes. It could be that collection of plain raw nuts we know so well - almonds, Brazil nuts, hazelnuts, pecans and walnuts - all still in the shell. It's a young child's dream to go at them with the fancy nutcracker in hand. Oh, do I ever remember that mess. Some prefer the assorted nuts that are already cleaned up, roasted and salted. And there are those that love to get fancy and dress them up with flavour. Lots of flavour.

My favourite nut is the pecan and I like them sweet and spicy. These Spicy Maple Pecans are adapted from a recipe by American chef Art Smith from his book, "Back to the Table: The Reunion of Food and Family". I also found a similar recipe on the blog of fellow Canadian food blogger, Julie, who posts on Dinner with Julie.

The nuts are a great party snack. They also make a very smart gift for those who appreciate gourmet and handmade. They are perfect in salads.

I am thrilled to have found my party nut. Try them. I bet you can't stop at one.



Spicy Maple Pecans
adapted from Back to the Table: The Reunion of Food and Family by Art Smith and Julie of Dinner with Julie

2 cups pecan halves

1/4 cup maple syrup

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon cumin

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon salt, scant

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper


Preheat oven to 350ºF.
Combine the sugar, cumin, chili powder, paprika, salt and cayenne pepper in a small bowl.

Spread pecans out on a baking sheet. Toast for 5 minutes. Pour the maple syrup over the nuts and stir to cover. Return to oven and roast for another 5 minutes. Stir the nuts to turn them and re-coat them with the syrup on the bottom of the baking sheet. Return them to the oven again for another 5 minutes. The syrup should be bubbling on the pecans now.


When the pecans have finished roasting in the syrup, take them out of the oven and cover with the spice mixture. Stir well to fully cover the nuts.
Then pour them onto a clean baking sheet to cool completely.

They can be stored in a sealed container for up to one week.

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Going A Little Local Under the Christmas Tree



My recent crazy jam craving has had me finding out more about the upcoming Locavore Artisan Food Fair on December 12 in New Edinburgh.

In a discussion with Michael Sunderland of michaelsdolce, I asked when the next jam tasting may take place in town. I have a few friends I think could become easy converts to that bright, fresh, full fruit flavour he captures in every jar. And Michael's response was that he would be out in full force at the LAFF (Locavore Artisan Food Fare).

I took a look at their line-up and noticed a number of my new loves were going to be there too.

Art-Is-In Bakery:
I pick up their breads from time to time at the Ottawa Bagelshop. The teenager's favourite is the cheddar jalapeno and the mister likes the fennel. I have been delighted with Art-Is-In panini sandwiches at favourite places like Edgar and Morning Owl Coffee House.

Chamomile Desjardins Hot Sauces: I have tried these hot sauces when dining at Jak's Kitchen. The sauces were were out on the table for us to doctor up our brunch as we saw fit! The teenager goes a little mad for hot sauces.

Happy Goat Coffee Company:
I recently picked up their espresso beans. They call this signature blend Babae's Espresso Blend. If I was in charge of Pierre Richard's marketing department, I would be calling this blend CRAZY CREMA! I just love seeing the shot being drawn and watching the big crema float. When I was at the shop to do my pickup, I got a great tip. Cochrane Dairy's egg nog is to die for when making an egg nog latte. Who knew that egg nog could froth? And why not?

Isobel's Cupcakes & Cookies: The only cupcake place I have tried in town so far is Isobel's. Cupcakes aren't my go-to sin but I did have to give it a try since cupcakes seem to be all the rage now. I went for one that was lemony. No surprise. Everything I was expecting in fresh and curdy of the lemon kind. I have yet to master the eat and run as a snack thing. The icing is stacked SO high. So for now, my Isobel cupcakes will have to be enjoyed on a pretty china plate with a nice silver cake fork and a wonderful cup of tea. And somehow that has a way of making it prettier too.

Rochef Chocolatier: On a food crawl down St-Joseph in Gatineau this summer, we found this wonderful chocolate at La Brûlerie. So many great flavour choices. But you will find me always reaching for Dark.

Serious Cheese: Tucked away in Old Ottawa South near my hairdresser, a piece of Fifth Town cheese can seem like a nice way to top off a great hair day. Don't even get me started on their ginger molasses cookies.

Siren Bakery: I have tried all of Loreli's granola flavours. I do like how liberal she is with the cinnamon. I have a soft spot for handmade gourmet granola. For me it works perfectly on fresh fruit and plain yogurt. We are lucky to have a number of great choices in the city. One of my favourites is for sure Siren Bakery's Cranberry and Almond.

I am going Christmas shopping: I have become familiar with the products of 8 of the participants. By my way of thinking, the other 13 must be on par with them to be included in this Food Fair. I look forward to finding out more about them in this collective setting. I like the idea of moving gift giving to top quality consumables. I like that I can get some of that good shopping done on December 12th at the Crichton Cultural Community Centre. 10 am until 3 pm and admission is Free.

The Ottawa LAFF is also partnering with the Ottawa Good Food Box for this event.

Monday, November 22, 2010

The Bauer Kitchen - Waterloo



On a recent road trip to the Kitchener-Waterloo region, we took in brunch at The Bauer Kitchen, one in the suite of restaurants owned by The Charcoal Group. We had a reservation for 11:00 am on the Sunday after the clocks changed back so we were expecting to be seated among a buzz of well rested fellow patrons. I am almost certain we were the first to arrive. First pour of the coffee would be the freshest, right?

The menu for brunch isn't teeming with choices of the 'breakfast' variety. Something we knew before going since we had cased it out on-line. This is not the place to go if you are looking for the diner experience of 2 eggs over easy, 3 strips of bacon, hashbrowns, rye lightly toasted. It is catering to a finer plate presentation - eggs benedict, waffles, french toast, 2 different omelettes, steak and eggs. The lunch side of the menu is better represented with sandwiches, salads, appetizers and even what I would call light dinner fare.

The website says that "The Bauer Kitchen's fair trade organic house coffee is a proprietary blend of three estate coffees from Nicaragua, Ethiopia and Sumatra". Which I suppose that's why it is $2.95. It was good, but not memorable. Though I am sure it was doing what it needed to be doing to get us primed for the day. (Perhaps I carry my loyalty to Bridgehead Coffeehouse, Ottawa too far.) Although it was Noon, 'old time', we all seemed to be dragging. Interestingly, if you are looking to bring their caffeine experience home, you can purchase their coffee (whole bean or ground) or get it next door at Vincenzo's.

They say their bread is baked using local grains and no additives or dough enhancers. That sounds like a good thing. It is baked on-site in the Bauer Bakery and can be purchased for take-home as well.

Our first mistake was ordering the sticky bun ($1.95 each). Two to share among the 4 of us. Although, there wasn't a whole lot of sharing. The mistake you ask? Well, let's just say the thing is gigantic and there is a reason that this picture looks like it covers the whole plate. It's because it does. It was a meal in and of itself. (Shouldn't good wait staff stop you from making bad decisions like that?) The fresh tender sweet bread was covered in much cinnamon, butter and sugar. (Not a nut or raisin to be found.) It was pretty yummy but I still continue the search for the 'best' sticky bun in the world.



I decided to go for the Smoked Salmon Benedict on a fresh biscuit with hollandaise, poached eggs, homefries and fresh fruit for $13.95. I try to pick salmon whenever I can. What a great idea to match it with the bennys. It really was lovely but I wished I had been more hungry than I was. Darn that sticky bun.



The teenager went off brunch and headed for lunch tastes, starting with the Romaine Salad with garlic anchovy dressing, Heidelberg double-smoked bacon, olive oil croutons and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese for $7.45. He absolutely LOVED it. It had that big garlic flavour he was looking for. He commented on the great bacon (quantity and taste) and the big splash of cheese shavings.



He then moved on to the Bauer Butcher Burger with Heidelburg double-smoked bacon, mustard scallion mayonnaise, aged cheddar and grilled onion on a multi-grain bun. It came with a handsome serving of sweet potato fries. All for $13.95. His eyes were bigger than his stomach and he admitted defeat early and opted for a doggie bag. He says he quite enjoyed the burger and the fries were done to perfection. (I can agree. To the fries.)



The mister and our guest had Eggs Benedict on a fresh biscuit with peameal bacon, arugula, poached eggs, hollandaise, homefries and fresh fruit for $11.95. Our guest moaned a lot through her meal. When it came time to clear the plates, hers had a look of 'licked clean'. The sticky bun mister gave his meal a valiant try!




The Bauer Kitchen opened in December 2009. They describe themselves as "an energetic up-market 'bistro' set in a SoHo inspired, restored felt factory". Who can argue with that description! (SoHo, a neighbourhood in Manhattan is 8 hours and 800 kms away. Wow! The power of inspiration.) The interior is impressive with its high ceilings, high wall shelves, cement floors, table dividers of industrial steel and reclaimed wood. The restaurant space is massive so getting a cozy feeling is tricky. This was my second time here and I still haven't felt it. It actually reminds me a bit of Milestones Grill + Bar, though it is hard to beat the Bauer Factory history seeping through.

Executive Chef, Michael Hodgson is a hometown boy and I often read about the healthy competitiveness and camaraderie among the chefs in the region that I can't help but think keeps them all sharp at their game.

I usually do not to pay much attention to restaurant prices, at least not in a picky way. I tend to think if you had a really outstanding experience, a percentage point or two doesn't really factor into your make or break decision. But I did feel the prices at TBK are a bit on the high side compared to other places of this calibre.

I do prefer chef-owned restaurants versus those run from 'head office', but I can happily say that our overall experience was positive and I do want to come back again. There is so much to the place, I think it will take a few tries to soak it all in. Perhaps on a future visit we will be out on their large outdoor patio. Here is hoping that the place is having a solid following as it approaches its first anniversary.

Whether I like it or not, Waterloo appears to be growing up.



The Bauer Kitchen
187 King Street South #102
Waterloo, ON
519. 772.0790
www.thebauerkitchen.com
Twitter: @thebauerkitchen

Open seven days a week.
Weekday Lunch: 11 am - 4 pm
Dinner: Mon & Tues: 4 pm - 11 pm
Dinner: Wed & Thurs: 4 pm - midnight
Dinner: Fri: 4 pm - 1 am
Dinner: Sat: 2 pm - 1 am
Diner: Sun: 2 pm - 11 pm
Weekend Brunch: 9 am - 2 pm

The Bauer Kitchen on Urbanspoon

Friday, November 19, 2010

Is There Room For Food Bloggers In The World Of Food Writing?

Ever since I started food blogging, I have noticed from time to time criticism on Twitter, Facebook and through on-line articles about the state of food writing in the 21st century and who is actually doing it. A traditional print model of newspapers and magazines publishing food writings has existed 'forever'.

In this day and age, it is quick to set up a web page and begin blogging. Now with such social media tools as Twitter and Facebook, it is also effortless to get the word out. Anybody can publish, if they are so inclined.

Here in Ottawa I faithfully follow close to 25 food bloggers, thanks somewhat in part to a food aggregator site called The Food. (Though I would venture to say the list of food blogs in Ottawa is probably nearing 100.) My reading list includes such notables as the Ottawa Citizen's blog by food editor Ron Eade called Omnivore's Ottawa. As far as I know, their food critic, Anne DesBrisay does not blog but does go digital with a website called Capital Dining, where her printed reviews are posted on-line, 'blog style'. I regularly catch Lunch Rush by Shari Goodman at MetroNews. Shari also has a personal food blog called Whisk. Shawna Wagman is consistently sharing foodie morsels over at Ottawa Magazine through City Bites. But many food blogs I read are done by amateur writers receiving no remuneration for what they post.

The blogs seem to come in all shapes and sizes. Some really look quite sharp. Downright artistic. Others, plain and basic. There is the clean look vs. the very cluttered. Some writings are short and sweet, bordering on poetic. Some are more the story-teller. There are those that struggle with their prose. And then there are the ones that come at you like 'I just had 3 Red Bulls!!'. You might find some choose to invite you into their family and kitchen. Others keep arms length and choose just to inform. Some are pushing vendor products on their behalf. Some are helping to distribute press releases. Some want all the world to follow. Others, just friends and family (but would tolerate the odd voyeur). Some blog once a day. Others blog once a year. Some read like they are dying to get paid one day. Others, hold tight to 'getting paid' means 'selling out'. And for some, this is just a great place to store their favourite recipes and restaurants and lucky you if you want to skim through it too.

With food blogging being so ubiquitous in the nation's capital, it has raised so many questions for me. The obvious one being, is there room for everyone's voice to be heard?

And then the questions start to tumble (none of them unique to Ottawa-Gatineau) ....

What qualifications are required, if any, to be a food blogger? What should be the 'rules of engagement? Are there some areas that are off limits or inappropriate? Are there some things about food blogging that is just downright WRONG? Do restaurateurs and chefs see a place for food bloggers or are they a blight on the print sheets of food writing? Should they cover a breadth of topics or do they create 'topic fatigue'? Are food bloggers being exploited for their readership to push someone else's food agenda? Are they too critical or not critical enough? Sure, there is the Food Blog Code of Ethics, but is there more to this conversation than this 'Magna Carta' of food? And what about the BIG question, does anybody really care?

Please weigh in. I would love to hear what you think. Is there room for food bloggers in the world of food writing?

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Tales from the 'Snack Lab' - Garlic Butter Crostinis with Melted Cheese, Shredded Apple and Chives



I am not sure why some days the lunch appetite seems to be all but vacant. Common sense tells me I should have something to eat anyway, even if it is just a 'little something'. I quickly consider a fast trip to Edgar in Hull, but get the bad news on Twitter that the brioche was all scooped up by one client! Not that Marysol's now famous bacon date brioche should have been my lunch - my 'little something', but it may have made a nice finish. The bad news tweet is probably an omen telling me I need to fend for myself.

The fridge is going through a food diet right now, which means I am refusing to buy groceries and I am slowly working my way through the selection of raw ingredients, trying to be as creative as possible with the combinations.

So today out came 14 McIntosh Osgoode Orchards apples, still left from my bushel that I had picked up at the Parkdale Market. I am thinking apple sauce. Lots of apple sauce. I am thinking pie. Probably two pies. Two award-winning apple pies. Neither really constitutes a 'little something' for lunch. I am stuck. Next, out comes a small brick of 'whenever did I buy this?', but still happy mozzarella cheese. Still not committed.

I expand my search and go down into the freezer. Here I find a small bag (well sealed!) of Ace Bakery baguette slices leftover from a recent dinner party. From the pantry I pull out the last vestiges of my locally grown garlic purchased from Jacobson's on Beechwood, of all places.

I am now feeling ready to play and experiment in the 'Snack Lab'. The bread slices get very lightly toasted, slathered with garlic butter and then covered with a small parcel of grated mozzarella cheese. Back under the broiler until they bubble up to a light golden brown.

Meanwhile I peel one of those still crunchy apples and shred it. When the garlicy, cheesed-up crostinis come out of the oven, I garnish them with a sprinkle of shredded apple and a few snips of chives for colour. I go in for the taste. Jackpot! I love the crunch of the bread, the nip of the garlic, the sweet and salty in the goo of the cheese, the bright freshness of the apple. I love the pretty of the chives. It is complex but complementary.

Voila! Today from the 'Snack Lab' I bring you the Garlic Butter Crostini with Melted Cheese, Shredded Apple and Chives!

I am feeling quite pleased with my 'little something' lunch. A possible hors d'œuvre for the upcoming book club Christmas party? I think so!

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Oliver & Bonacini Café Grill - Waterloo



It has been 4 days now since our party of five dined out at the Oliver & Bonacini Café Grill, located at Conestoga Mall in Waterloo, Ontario and I am still pondering the experience. This is one of five O & B Café Grills in Ontario. So a chain, I guess. Not something I usually do when dining out. But this collection of restaurants is just five in the larger family of Peter Oliver and Michael Bonacini eateries. Of the other six, Canoe and Luma are the more well-known, both situated in Toronto. As I contemplated whether I would go to a 'chain', I acquiesced knowing it came with a pedigree.

I sometimes catch a glimpse of Michael Bonacini on Citytv's CityLine but I am most fond of his TV presence from his time on Chris Knight's production, Cook Like A Chef. What is it with Welsh men? They are just so darn charming. And a celebrity chef so calm, cool and collected seems virtually unheard of in this industry. Shea Robinson is the Chef de Cuisine at the Waterloo location. No word on HIS disposition!

With all this goodness, what could I possibly be pondering? What I can't figure out is why Waterloo. The other Grill locations are more Toronto centric with the exception of the other outlier, Blue Mountain. And if Waterloo, then why the Conestoga Mall. And if Waterloo's Conestoga Mall, where is everybody? I get that Kitchener-Waterloo has a high student population with two universities but surely there are enough people in the area with some okay coin to go out to dinner once in a while. Perhaps we can just chock it up to being Sunday night in a town that still closes its doors sometimes for 'the day of rest'. For us it was a lovely evening and I just hate to see people missing out! I so hope a Waterloo presence can work for them.

Annie greeted us like family on our arrival. Our service was consistent, cheery and attentive. The interior is beautiful. So many details that speak to a very urban style, not typical of restaurants I have been to in Waterloo in the past. High ceilings. Large tables. Banquettes. White and bright everywhere. Fashion forward plates. Their handicap washroom borders on posh. Check out the website gallery section to give you a better sense of the mood of this place.

We all shared the chicken & leek potstickers with maple ponzu sauce. Lovely bundles with an asian accent.





The teenager first dug into the small caesar salad with focaccia croutons, maple bacon, creamy garlic and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese dressing. Another guest started with this dish as well. They both had the same comment - the dressing seemed diluted. He was looking for a rich garlic punch. High praise for the bacon though!



The teenager then moved on to the Tuscan onion soup with caramelized onion broth and bocconcini and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. This was his favourite dish. All the onion flavour he was hoping for. He recommended it and wants to come back for more!




The teenager finished off with one of the November Tutta La Pasta specials - handmade ricotta and truffle ravioli with preserved lemon and garlic sautéed Swiss chard, butternut squash and rosemary brown butter. I was able to pull off a taste of this. I enjoyed the creamy filling and the squash base. But the Swiss chard was just a bit too overpowering against the very mellow ricotta and squash. High marks though for being beautifully presented. After all, we do eat with our eyes, don't we?



I had the grilled Atlantic salmon seasoned with olive oil, lemon, sea salt and garden herbs, served with Provençal ratatouille and thyme roasted potatoes. It was a handsome portion and the salmon was cooked to perfection. I loved every bite. The ratatouille was a good match and something I have never had with salmon before.



The mister had the grilled chicken on Japanese Caesar with edamame, roasted shiitake, cashews, wasabi peas, pickled ginger in a lime and soy Caesar dressing.



Our first dinner companion followed her Caesar salad with the strozzapreti (short hand-rolled pasta) with rosemary lamb ragout, spinach and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. It was an ample portion and she left most of her pasta. I suspect it overshadowed the ragout.



Our second dinner companion had the fire roasted baby back ribs with jalapeño cornbread pudding, creamy coleslaw, seasonal vegetables and campfire maple baked beans. He just loved these lip smacking ribs!



Our dinner companions shared the Sicilian pistachio ice cream. Creamy goodness! It came from SOMA Chocolatemaker in Toronto’s Historic Distillery District where artisan David Castellan makes handcrafted chocolates and gelato.



The teenager, the mister and I shared one of the O&B Tiniest Desserts - a raisin loaded butter tart. Being a bit of a butter tart connoisseur, I believe no butter tart should have more than ten raisins. I didn't do a final tally but I know there was easily double that count. Thankfully they all sat on top so I could alter this tart to be just pure sugar pie. This probably isn't the place to brag about my own baking prowess, but it was said by both family members that my butter tarts are better! It was still a tasty treat.



The highlights were definitely the salmon, the baby back ribs and the Tuscan onion soup. Waterloo is fortunate to have Oliver & Bonacini Café Grill in their midst. Considering the size of this region now, it needs to have a place to go for a reliable, solidly delivered meal that can serve as a 'go-to' place and also a destination for celebrations. The food preparation is receiving careful attention in its preparation. The ingredients are simple and fresh. Come out and enjoy your gem. I for one would love to go back.

Oliver & Bonacini Café Grill
Conestoga Mall
550 King Street North
Waterloo, Ontario
519.772.0783
www.oliverbonacini.com

Open seven days a week.
Lunch: 11:30 am - 4 pm
Dinner: Sun & Mon: 4 pm - 9 pm
Dinner: Tues to Thurs: 4 pm - 10 pm
Dinner: Fri & Sat: 4 pm - 11 pm
Weekend à la carte Brunch: 11 am - 4 pm

Oliver & Bonacini Cafe Grill on Urbanspoon

LCBO Food & Drink Magazine - Holiday Issue 2010



The Holiday issue of LCBO's Food & Drink magazine came out yesterday. My anticipation of its arrival every few months, borders on compulsive. Yep, I even set my alarm to get to my neighbourhood location at Richmond and Kirkwood for their 10:00 am opening. The Holiday issue is probably my most favourite. In our home, my rule is that the Christmas decorations can 'legally' go up the day after Remembrance Day.

Yesterday morning the mister took the liberty of adding the pickup task to HIS to-do list as a gesture of helpfulness but also to be 'efficient'. To not have that hot little number in my hot little hands at 10:05 am pushed me out of my comfort zone, for sure.

But now that I have it, I am dreaming of sugar plums. Okay, well maybe there aren't actually sugar plums dancing in my head, but I have to say the Suppli Al Telefono appetizer stopped me in my tracks. Party Apps by Cobi Ladner and Tonia Wilson will be a go-to article for amping up the yummies at our book club Christmas party. [These gals are regular readers of F&D too!]

Even better, I may finally conquer the construction of the Parisian macaron. I have had these Marie-Antoinette-style sweets straight from Laudrée in Paris, and I am now ready to follow every minute detail on 'mastering macarons' laid out in the article Macaron Magic by Dana McCauley.

A new dinner menu is forming as I ogle the Large Lobster Tails with Dill Butter & Pistachios on Saffron Risotto with Leeks from Dressed for Dinner by Marilyn Bentz-Crowley.

I know my turkey leftovers are headed for Curried Turkey in Naan Bread thanks to Remains of the Day by Signe Langford and Monda Rosenberg.

I could go on and on. The weight of this magazine alone at 890 grams says it all. This edition is PACKED with everything you need for the holiday season, including a Holiday Playlist on page 38 by Rick Shurman and Earl Torno that mixes the familiar traditionals with some up-beat, peppy numbers.

I am guessing that this is probably their hottest issue of the year. You need to get out now and pick it up!

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Edgar - Infectious. Like Bees to Honey.

Today, I paid an impromptu visit to Edgar at 60 rue Bégin in Old Hull. Edgar is the brain-child of powerhouse, Marysol, well known for her food blog she eats bears. I was out of town for the big opening this past Saturday and Sunday. Monday they were closed and so today was my first chance to see the culmination of all the meticulous planning and hard work that went into opening this petit café. Marysol seems to exude boundless energy and determination.

I would be wrong not to mention her number one supporter and fan, Simon, who was ably helping over the weekend and also this Tuesday. What a strong team the two of them make.

When I went today, it was not with camera in hand or with the intent to write. Just to visit, enjoy lunch and to say a hello. There has been quite a few blog posts already, sharing the message of goodness. Maybe my take on it wouldn't be that much different. Great food is, well great food. But I came away with two thoughts that were unshakable as I made my drive home.

First, I don't know Marysol that well, really. We are Ottawa foodie community confrères that share the love of food through personal food blogs, who have met just a handful of times over the past number of months. But she has the darnedest way of making you feel like you have known her forever. Her infectious personality draws you in. Second, the food at Edgar is memorable. Every detail, surgically calculated. Her food is emblematic of that age old phrase 'made with love'.

For those that fall under the spell of Marysol, your life will be enriched. Be you acquaintance, fellow food blogger, Edgar client, supplier of food wares, industry colleague. It is like bees to honey. I bet you even the phone guys liked her in the end, despite all the hassles with installing that debit machine.

For those eating the food here, you will struggle with your decisions and you may not know when to stop. I just can't imagine my experience today was unique. I ROLLED out of Edgar after the most delicious lunch.

I started with a ham, romaine and Jarlsberg cheese panini. So yummy with the Dijon mustard. I had it along side a big bowl of spicy butternut squash and sweet potato soup infused with lemon grass, lime leaves, coriander, cayenne, and curry. It was lovingly garnished with fresh coriander and cucumber cubes.

The compulsion to continue could not be reined in. I just couldn't say no to the now famous orange zesty brioche, that parcels nuggets of bacon and dates. It is best when it is warmed. Simon's suggestion. I went totally sophisticated and ate it with a fork. It seemed wrong to have it without a latte. This would be a chance to give Marysol her sought after practice with the big machines, I thought. Really, I was doing her a favour, wasn't I? She spoiled me with a dash of cinnamon on top. Cinnamon goes well with zesty orange and bacon and dates and briochy flavours. A calculated move on her part? To be sure. As good as she is with the colour palate when making her beautiful art, this lady knows her taste palate as well.

So you think my foodie visit ended with that last drip of emulsified latte milk? Oh no. I was still at the trough. It was now time to pick a treat to bring home to the mister. That sticky apple pecan muffin would bring me high praise. I have been eyeballing it since the blog post of October 9th, where its perfection was unveiled. [For the record, it has vanished already and there isn't even a crumb to be had.] I have been dedicating myself to vigorous product research since mid-summer, searching out the bestest homemade granola in the Ottawa-Gatineau area. 190 grams of granola goodness would be coming home too.

If you are caught up on all the food blogs about Edgar from the opening weekend, you will know that I am confirming that everything the others have been saying is totally true. Be it The Twisted Chef, foodiePrints, heartful mouthful or Rachelle Eats Food. And while you are at it, why not hear what Marysol thinks of it all so far.

Lucky rue Bégin. Lucky Old Hull. Lucky anybody who crosses the threshold of Edgar.

Congratulations Edgar! It must be in the genes.

Edgar
60 rue Bégin
Gatineau (Hull sector), Quebec
819.205.1110
www.chezedgar.ca
www.sheeatsbears.blogspot.com

Update to Brunch hours (effective Oct 1, 2011)
Wed to Fri: 10 am - 6:30 pm
Sat: 10 am - 5 pm (Brunch 10 am - 2 pm)
Sun: 9:30 am - 5 pm (Brunch 9:30 am - 2 pm)
Mon and Tues: Closed

Edgar on Urbanspoon
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