Supply and Demand's Famous Kale Salad - Homestyle

Supply and Demand Kale Salad Homestyle for our Summer Solstice dinner.

It's true that I offer up Supply and Demand as one of my regular restaurant haunts when people ask me where to eat in Ottawa.  And despite their offerings on their Raw Bar and seafood selections from the mains, I seem to get permanently stuck in their veggies on the Small Plates and From The Garden section of the menu.

My most repeated dish over my many visits is their signature Kale Salad.  My visits are often impromptu and covering for me instead of cooking for myself.  The last two times I dropped in quickly for a Kale Salad and a Beet Salad. Re-energized, I was good to go.

After my harried attempt at making their Kale Salad for my Summer Solstice dinner, all I can say is, don't come to my restaurant if you want to eat in a hurry. Eating out has its benefits.

The number one rule of cooking if using a recipe is to read it through first to gather the ingredients and to absorb the instructions.  I like to live loose with recipes but I was committed to following this one to a tee.  Mainly because I already know that the space between Chef Steve Wall's Kale Salad perfection and what I could add to elevate the dish to my personal tastes is non-existent.

Had I followed my number one rule of cooking, I would have probably washed and massaged the kale sooner to allow for a proper and thorough drying.  I would have known that the already cooked bacon in the freezer wouldn't do because I needed the rendered fat to toast up the coarse bread crumbs.  And speaking of coarse bread crumbs, well they take a bit of time to make if you are starting with frozen old buns from the freezer.

What I did do right was make sure I had some fresh Manchego cheese on hand to snow peak my mountain of salad.

Although I only had the one head of kale, I made the full batch of dressing and used more the next day with my grilled asparagus in place of a gribiche sauce.  I would consider using this dressing for my classic romaine Caesar too.

Curly kale from this week's CSA basket from Roots and Shoots Farm

If you have an awesome head of curly kale like the one I had from Roots and Shoots Farm, by all means, make the much hailed Kale Salad à la Supply and Demand.  But if you are in a hurry to eat, head on down to 1335 Wellington Street West and hope they can tuck you in at the end of the bar.

KALE SALAD WITH CAPER VINAIGRETTE
Source: Chef Steve Wall, Supply and Demand
printed with permission; embellishments for my own clarity are also included

Makes 4 generous servings.

Ingredients:

For Caper Vinaigrette
3 anchovy fillets
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons capers, plus a good splash of brine
1 large shallot, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1/3 cup water
1 1/2 cups canola oil, scant

For Salad
2 bunches curly kale
1/2 lb bacon
1/2 cup coarse bread crumbs
1 1/2 ounces Manchego cheese*

*Supply and Demand has also used Crotonese cheese

Method:
To make the vinaigrette, purée anchovy fillets, Dijon mustard, capers, shallot, garlic, vinegar and water in a blender or VitaMix until smooth.

Chef's Tip: Allow some caper brine to be included with the capers; it will give the vinaigrette an extra "capery" flavour boost.

Slowly add the oil with the blender running. Season with salt.  Chill the dressing until using.

Remove the stems from the kale.  Wash, then soak in ice cold water.  Using ice cubes, massage each leaf individually.  The leaves will turn a strong green.  This tenderizing process removes the leaf's stiffness and will give the kale a more lettuce-like texture.  Once the kale leaves are torn into pieces, pat dry with a towel.

To make coarse bread crumbs, place chunks of old bread in a 300°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes to dry and then crumble it in your hands until you have pieces the size of small peas.

Fry bacon slices until the fat is rendered and bacon is crispy, remove bacon and save the bacon fat in pan.

Add the coarse bread crumbs to the hot bacon fat in the pan and sauté until the crumbs are golden.  Season lightly with salt.

Put the kale in a bowl for tossing.  Season it lightly with salt.  Add the bacony bread crumbs, and crumbled bacon.  Don your kitchen gloves. Dress the salad with the vinaigrette and massage it into the leaves.

Place in serving bowl and top with shredded cheese using a fine microplane.

In the middle of preparing this post I had to zip out to do an errand in the village.  Dinner service had just started at Supply and Demand so I sat in for a quick bite.  Kale salad to start, of course.  Comparing this delight to my weekend effort, I think my Supply and Demand Kale Salad Homestyle was a success.

Happy 1st Birthday Supply and Demand

One of Ottawa's top restaurants, Supply and Demand, celebrated their 1st birthday this week.

I can imagine it was a joyous day with much reflection on what many would consider a banner year with unprecedented successes, including being recognized on the national stage. Supply and Demand was chosen by Enroute magazine as #4 in Canada's Top 10 Best New Restaurants of 2013.

Chef-owner Steve Wall has worked tirelessly with his partner and wife, Jennifer Wall, to make this the kind of restaurant that would have customers returning time and time again.

Their regularly changing menu has continued to wow me with bold flavours, new fresh ingredients and interesting combinations of tastes and textures.

I would be one of those clients that over the past year has returned time and time again. My first visit being days after they opened, the most recent being last week, and with many, many visits in-between.

What I share with you today could in no way be considered a review.  At best, it is my food diary for Supply and Demand.  You see, for their 5 major sections on the menu - RAW AND MARINATED; SMALL PLATES; FROM THE GARDEN; PASTA; MEAT AND FISH - I have really only spent time in Small Plates and From The Garden. Once have I strayed and ordered a fish dish for a main.

I, like many, anticipated their opening last January with much curiosity. I distinctly remember how much I was looking forward to having a decent seafood restaurant in the neighbourhood.  Seafood is, after all, my most popular main whenever we dine out.

But, in fact, Supply and Demand has been really more of a vegetarian destination for me.  I just can't get out From The Garden, often ordering all dishes in that section for my dining pleasure.

Justin and Jessie have been my most frequent servers.  Jessie has now moved on to Wilf and Ada's on Bank Street to provide leadership there in the front of the house.  They, along with Jennifer Wall, made me feel welcome as I often dined solo when the mister was out of town and the sign on my own kitchen said 'closed'. Jessie knew that a request for a 'quenchy', meant I really wanted San Pellegrino's Pompelmo.  If Justin forgot my coffee, his tip was still intact and gentle ribbing would ensue. Jennifer constantly asked about the dishes, keen to receive feedback.

The best seat in the house is at The Chef's Table, where Chef Wall happily shares his secrets as plates are constructed before your eyes.  Adam Vettorel works along side him and expresses a similar calm, cool and collected demeanor.  The Chef's Table is tricky business though.  You are likely at risk of ordering more than you planned as the smells wrap round you relentlessly.

Every meal starts with their signature Parkerhouse rolls.  The spread has varied over the year but is always high calorie - duck fat, chilled brown butter, butter and duck fat combined. You name it. As a nod to their good service, they knew that when I dined alone, it was only one roll for me.

They came out of the gates guns a blazing.  Everybody was talking about their Lobster and Bacon Tart. At $19 on the Small Plates menu it might have seemed dear but it was worth every bite. Says me and everyone else who ever ordered it. This was my very first bite of Supply and Demand that chilly night last January 24, 2013.

Lobster and Bacon Tart with Crème Fraîche, Pickled Onions and Fennel $19

I promptly went home and emailed a foodie friend that I knew would want such good news hot off the press. This is what I told her as I unfurled the pile of flavours I had just consumed.

"Lobster and bacon tart - loved it. Crème fraîche on bottom, then pâte brisée tart medallion, then béchamel sauce, then maple glazed sous vide slab of bacon, then lobster, then pickled fennel and pickled onion, then topped with pea shoot sprouts. Not too sweet on the maple. Dish was a bit rich but not too, too much. Tart nicely done. Overall, just loved it. So many flavours. Well balanced. Clever. Original."

I liked this dish so much I had it again months later.

Kale Salad is a signature dish.  I am not sure it has ever left the menu and if it did it would have been a brief vacation, as I know I have had it a half dozen times at least.

Kale Salad with Caper Vinaigrette, Manchego Cheese and Bacon $7

The salad is dressed with a caper and anchovy vinaigrette. If that's not a enough salty flavour, it is generously adorned with bacon. Many times it came snow-capped with Manchego cheese. Though my kale salad last week had a Pecorino Crotonese, an artisanal sheep's milk cheese aged in wicker baskets. The leaves are soft and tender, a texture owed to a regiment in the preparation of a supple massage for each and every leaf.  This is part of the prep earlier in the day but also just before putting the salad together. A kale spa of sorts.

A reasonable strategy is to save some of your Parkerhouse roll to wipe out the bowl. Do ask for one if you forget. Not a drop of this dressing should reach the dish pit.

Even in a darkly lit room, the kale salad beckons your fork with haste.

Kale Salad with Caper Vinaigrette, Crotonese Cheese and Bacon $8

I've already declared my love for From The Garden.  My most favourite dish over the year was the New Crop Potatoes with Soft Boiled Egg, Dijon, Lemon and Herring Caviar.

New Crop Potatoes with Soft Boiled Egg, Dijon, Lemon and Herring Caviar $7

I loved it enough to order it two more times before it left the menu.

New Crop Potatoes with Soft Boiled Egg, Dijon, Lemon and Herring Caviar $7

New Crop Potatoes with Soft Boiled Egg and Herring Caviar $8

Okay, I may have lied. Perhaps the cauliflower dishes From The Garden were my favourite.  There were a number of versions over their run. Pickled Cauliflower Fritto with Smoked Paprika Mayo and Padano Cheese stood out as one of my repeats. Then they switched it up for a Scallion Mayo.

Pickled Cauliflower Fritto with Smoked Paprika Mayo and Padano Cheese $6

There was also Cauliflower with Buttermilk Purée, Olive Pistou and Toasted Almonds.

During their short season I tried the grilled asparagus.

Grilled Asparagus with Berkshire Lonza and Pickled Ramp Gribiche $8

Other great From The Garden dishes included roasted beets, pickled beets, mushrooms, more potatoes, fiddleheads, sunchokes and Brussels sprouts. They have ranged from $4 to $8.

Desserts were constantly changing, so one couldn't get too attached. Here are a few I tried.

Arnold Palmer Trifle with Lemon Pound Cake, Earl Grey Custard and Sponge Toffee $8 [top left]; Chocolate Crema with Whipped Peanut Butter and Salted Caramel $8 [top right]; Lemon Pot de Creme with Toasted Meringue and White Chocolate Rocher $7 [bottom left]; Cherry Cheesecake Trifle with Cream Cheese Parfait, Graham Crumbles and Sundried Cherry $8 [bottom right].

I will warn you, I didn't find one that wasn't super sweet.  Once at The Chef's Table, I asked for a half serving of the Cream Puffs with Raspberry Curd, Liquid Cheesecake and Fudge Glaze. It was still more sugar than I could handle. Have a strong coffee on the ready before you dig in.

They do know me at Supply and Demand, so if you need more proof that they are one of our finest picks in town, read what others have to say:

• Peter Hum, Food Editor and Dining Out Critic at The Ottawa Citizen February 28, 2013 and 13 Best Bites of 2013
• Shawna Wagman, Food Editor at Ottawa Magazine June 20, 2013 
• Shawna Wagman, Food Editor at Ottawa Magazine Winter 2013 issue
• Anne Desbrisay, Ottawa Magazine, May 2013 issue
• Kent Van Dyk, Restaurant Critic, CBC Radio In Tow and Out, January 26, 2013

Well, this is all a very long-winded way to say Happy Birthday Supply and Demand! May there be many more.

Supply and Demand
1335 Wellington Street West
Ottawa
613.680.2949

Sun to Mon: 5 - 9:30 pm
Tues to Sat: 5 - 10 pm

Facebook: Supply and Demand
Twitter: SupplyOttawa
Web: www.supplyanddemandfoods.ca

Roots and Shoots Farm - 2nd Week of CSA Food 2013

As Season 4 of Roots and Shoots Farms' CSA food basket program gets underway, I am feeling like an old hand.  We have been members since year one.

Roots and Shoots Farm is located south of Ottawa and has been certified organic for a few years.  In addition to the CSA shares, they also sell their produce at local markets around the Capital.  I will sometimes buy from them at the Ottawa Farmers' Market - either the location in Westboro or at Brewer Park.

My pickup location is at the Mountain Equipment Co-op in Westboro.  Roots and Shoots sets up a produce stand for walk by shoppers.  This week it included bunches of Jess Weatherhead's beautiful organic flowers. Normally Danny is cheerfully greeting us as we roots through the bins but this time we had Robin Turner himself, the owner of the farm.  The Beatnik van plastered in psychedelic murals has been replaced by a larger, slick looking refrigeration truck.

Typically a pickup takes just a few minutes, but as we get to know each other, we stop to enjoy a friendly chat.  This week I ran into an other veteran, Lesli.  By the time we swapped recipes, food inspirations, and updates on our own home gardens, I am sure the mister figured I had stopped in somewhere for dinner.  We covered it all. Strawberries, canning, tomatoes, garlic, kale, cookbooks and probably a bit more. It made my day.

One of the biggest challenges with having a CSA share is the uncertainty.  It isn't until the last minute that you find out what will be filling the fridge.  Most of us shop with a predetermined grocery list. What used to be so stressful, is now just something we are taking in stride.

Our first basket is not dissimilar to our first one last year, though a wee bit smaller because of a cold, wet past few months.

But what we did receive was high quality and well developed.

This week's basket included:
Cucumber (two)
Lettuce
Kale (I chose curly leaf)
Swiss chard
Spring onions
Herbs (I chose basil)
Radishes
Hakurei turnips

Tonight we used our radish tops in an open galette, baked on the BBQ.  A few years ago, ignorant of their goodness, radish greens would have ended up in the compost.  Today, I use them like I would spinach.  In fact, the greens were substituted into a recipe that had originally called for spinach - Spinach and Feta Galette found in the latest issue of the LCBO Food & Drink magazine.

With the radishes all tidied up, the mister will be munching on the red buds. A favourite snack.

The bunch of basil was used in a Margherita pizza.  First, some went into the sauce.  Then a number of fresh leaves were laid on the pizza when it came off the grill, as a finishing garnish.

Tomorrow I am making a kale salad.  I have said many times how much I enjoy the kale salad created by Chef Steve Wall at Supply and Demand.  He was gracious enough to allow the recipe to be published.  I just hope I can do it justice.  Jen Wall says the trick is to put in lots of time massaging the leaves during preparation.

And on it will go. Before long, we will be shopping at the markets to fill in until the next basket arrives.

Are you a CSA member? What are you doing with your food basket?