Lunching at a Mill - Heirloom Café Bistro Is One of Almonte's Valuable Possessions

While foodie-loping in the Valley yesterday, I stopped in Almonte for lunch.  The Heirloom Café Bistro is situated in the ground level of the town's old historic Victoria Woolen Mill, now converted into condominiums. They have been part of the Almonte food scene for three years.

The high ceilings leave open the rustic wood timber beams.  Large windows surround the perimeter of the dining room, allowing full light from all sides. It is an elegant setting for relaxed fine-dining, right down to the white linen tablecloths.

The lunch menu offered a broad selection, plus a few daily specials. My soup being one of them.  Food is locally sourced from such places as:  Back Forty Artisan Cheese, Mariposa Farm, Maplelane Farm, Perth Pork Products, Art-is-in Bakery, Equator Roasters Coffee.

I started with their Daily Market Soup, the Mushroom and Brie Bisque. As the name would suggest, it was quite rich and I appreciated choosing the smaller serving. My wedge of Art-is-in Bakery Dynamite baguette was warmed slightly.

The Warm Beet and Parsnip Salad was amply portioned with the titled root vegetables and used as it's base fresh, fresh tender baby spinach.

Thin threads of red onion were woven through and the dish was crowned with young, bright pea sprouts. There was a tease of  Highland Blue morsels, Back Forty Artisan Cheese's Royal Winter Fair ribbon winner.

As I settled in for slow bites of my salad, I unearthed a mother lode of Perth Pork Products' smokey bacon.

Prices are quite reasonable for the setting and food quality. Service was attentive and helpful. The food exquisitely prepared.

Google Maps says it is 37 minutes door to door. Their brunch menu has caught my eye. I shall return.

PS. I first read about this place from My Macaroni Pie back in July 2011.

Heirloom Café Bistro
7 Mill Street
Almonte, Ontario
613.256.9653
Website: www.heirloomcafe.ca
Facebook: Heirloom Cafe Bistro
Twitter: heirloombistro

Mon: Closed
Tues to Sat: 11 am - 3 pm; 5 - 9 pm
Sun: 11 am - 3 pm

Lunching at a Bakeshop - Art-is-in Bakery Is Heating It Up With Kevin's Clam Chowder

I went to Art-is-in Bakery (or is it Boulangerie?) for bread shopping and ended up staying for lunch. My first time trying their midday fare.

I didn't want a big honking sandwich. Many are priced around $11. More than I cared to spend for lunch and a price that implied 'size'. So I took on Kevin's Clam Chowder.

The KCC, named for owner-baker-chef Kevin Mathieson, was loaded up with clams plus big chunks of potato, celery, carrots and tomato.

The lightly creamed broth was absent of 'glom' and had a bit of spicy heat to warm your cheeks. The kind of lip-smacking taste that leaves you wanting for seconds.

No fish crackers here. Teetering on the plate was a wedge of the famous Art-is-in Boulangerie's Dynamite Cheddar, Chive & Jalapeño baguette.

Plenty of lunch for $6.25.

Art-is-in Bakery
250 City Center Avenue, Bay 114 (access from Scott St., just west of Preston)
Ottawa, Ontario
613.695.1226
Website: www.artisinbakery.com
Facebook: Art-is-in Bakery
Twitter: ArtisinBakery

Mon to Wed: 7 am - 6 pm
Thurs to Fri: 7 am - 7 pm
Sat: 8 am - 5 pm
Sun: 8:30 am - 4 pm (Brunch from 9 am - 1 pm)

Taste The Future - Fundraiser For The Ron Eade Culinary Bursary A Resounding Success

Canapé - Guacamole with Pomegranate Seeds on a Crispy Cucumber Round. Photo credit: Algonquin College

"The launch of Algonquin College's new Ron Eade Culinary Bursary has been a resounding success." Event co-ordinators, Scott Warrick and Mario Ramsay, both chef professors at Algonquin College, are beaming.  Although there is still work to be done on the tally, Chef Warrick has already announced that, "over $20,000 was raised through the fundraiser."

Chefs Scott Warrick and Mario Ramsay, culinary professors at The Algonquin College School of Hospitality and Tourism. Photo Credit: Anne Waters

On March 21 Restaurant International at Algonquin College was filled with the who's who of the culinary food scene here in Ottawa.

Photo credit: Algonquin College

But on this evening, these big names were actually the supporting cast to a dynamic team of soon-to-be graduates coming from Algonquin College's culinary programs.  Led by student, Trish Grey, the graduating class planned and prepared the evening's dinner, under the watchful eye and supporting hand of Chef Mario Ramsay.

Lead student, Trish Grey on the far right. Chef Mario Ramsay to her left. Photo credit: Algonquin College

This was a special evening.  It not only launched the bursary but it was an opportunity to fête local food enthusiast and journalist, Ron Eade, now semi-retired from the Ottawa Citizen where he most recently held the role as Food editor of 14 years.

All in good fun, the reception started with a signature cocktail called 'The Irascible'. I loved it. The Algonquin Bartending students, adding a few trendy touches, cleverly designed a drink that was a deconstructed combination of three classics - Whiskey Sour, Manhattan and the Old-Fashioned. Sour, Bitter, Salty and Sweet, representing the many facets of the evening's guest of honour.

Our lively Emcee Derick Fage from Rogers Daytime Ottawa did a fantastic job at keeping the tempo high and managing the traffic at the podium.

Michel Savard, Dean for the School of Hospitality and Tourism, the second largest culinary school in Canada, told us that 70% of the students in the program need financial support.  He shared many moving stories of students in the program fighting to obtain their basic needs for food and shelter. The cost of books, uniforms and supplies are on top of that. He encouraged us to be generous with our support of tomorrow's chefs today.

As for our fine dining, we received a solid showing from the students. So much so, that Gay Cook took to the podium to rave about her main. Really rave.

Canapé - Sauteéd Shrimp with Spicy Mango Salsa. Photo credit: Algonquin College

Canapé - Smoked Beef Carpaccio on a Garlic Crostini, topped with an Arugula Salad. Photo credit: Algonquin College

Appetizers: Pan-seared scallops with Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Pine Nuts & a Raspberry Gastrique; Duck Confit Wonton Cups with Caramelized Onions, Goat Cheese & Passion Fruit Chutney; Chicken Rillettes served with Crostini and Pickled Veg. Photo credit:  Algonquin College

Salad - Arugula Salad with Spicy Candied Walnuts, Blue Cheese Balls and Strawberry Vinaigrette. Photo credit: Algonquin College

Main - Braised Short Ribs with Crispy Pork Belly on a bed of Red & Gold Beets, Braised Kale & Spicy Pan-fried Polenta. Photo credit: Algonquin College

Dessert - Chocolate Crème Brûlée; Mini Classic NY Cheesecake; Maple Pecan Tart. Photo credit: Algonquin College

With an auction set-up on eBay ten days before the event, the general public was able to participate in the fundraiser's shopping.  A few items were set aside for live auction by surprise auctioneer extraordinaire, Stephen Beckta. With good humour and lots of ribbing, Stephen, much to his own surprise, handily pried open a number of wallets to join in on the antics of the auction.  "It is for the students after all!" he interjected whenever the pace slowed.

As guest of honour, Ron Eade was pleased with how the evening went, "It was really quite a success, and I'm delighted to play a small role in the success of future Algonquin culinary students."

"The intent of this bursary is to assist a culinary student after the first semester who has demonstrated a commitment to the craft and plans to pursue career development in the culinary arts. It is not just about academic excellence, because not every great chef of tomorrow may be academically inclined today. Rather, it’s about passion and determination to succeed, two hallmarks of distinction that denote excellence in any field."

Ron was quick to emphasize, "Let me assure you, those with passion and commitment stand out from the pack every time.  Those are among the people I want to encourage."

Well said. Mission accomplished.

Ron Eade looks on intently as Algonquin College culinary student, Jennesa Compton listens to instruction from Chef Bob Gelinas. Photo Credit: Anne Waters

 *** Direct donations are still being accepted through CanadaHelps.org (tax receipt for full amount) ***

Creamy Coleslaw With A Kick

Some people like their coleslaw with oil and vinegar dressing. Some prefer creamy.  We swing both ways.  Our creamy coleslaw dressing has evolved and now it has an extra 'kick'.

I have faithfully been following the directions for Bobby Flay's Creamy Coleslaw Dressing to a tee. Over time though the formula has been shifting to adjust to our own tastes in seasonings and also to deal with substitutions when our pantry has been lacking. Our latest concoction is worthy of repeating.

For the base of my slaw I shred one head of green cabbage and part of a red.  Sometimes as much as half, depending on the size.  The carrots are also size dependent, but usually I grate two or three.  Let your colour sense dictate your blend.  I find the proportions are more about looks than taste. Some think of cabbage as peasant food so I do like it to be a snappy dresser.

How has my latest dressing varied from the original by Bobby Flay?

I have upped the mayonnaise and sour cream to make sure there is enough dressing. Partly because the volume of slaw has increased from adding the red cabbage. And cabbage head sizes can be so unpredictable. I now add celery seeds and less celery salt.  The vinegar is less, as is the sugar.

The latest big change - dry mustard has been reduced to make room for the kick of horseradish. Truth be told, we ran out of dry mustard. The horseradish idea seemed like a stroke of brilliance.  The darling son's idea.  I take no credit. My observation - aversion to last minute grocery store runs can be the mother of invention.

I put the pre-dressed slaw together and store in a Ziploc bag with all the air removed.  I only dress as much slaw as I am using in a serving to keep it crisp. Coleslaw is a wonderful side dish for ham or pork of any kind. Terrific as a picnic food. I like it just as a midday snack.

What makes your creamy coleslaw dressing pack the punch?

Anne and Bobby's Creamy Coleslaw Dressing
Inspired by Bobby Flay, Food Network

1 1/4 cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons sour cream
1 1/2 tablespoons white vinegar
2 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons celery salt
3/4 teaspoon celery seeds
2 tablespoons minced onion
1 teaspoon horseradish
2 teaspoons dry mustard

Combine all the ingredients together and adjust to taste.  The dressing can keep chilled in the fridge for a few days.

LCBO Food & Drink Magazine - Spring Issue 2013

As the snow flurries danced Fantasia-style this afternoon, I was more than ready to find warmth between the pages of the latest LCBO Food & Drink magazine - their Spring issue. It actually came out March 6, but me with my globetrotting life missed being in the province that day. Home a week later, I went right from the airport to the liquor store and came up empty-handed.  Not surprised, really. They go like hotcakes.

My game plan was to raid an issue from any old friend's powder room.  That's your trick too when you miss one, isn't it? But as good fortune would have it, Easter Bunnies galore had magazines to offer me the last few days. I accepted only one.

How sweet to see Ruth Gangbar as Kat Tancock's Trendspotting highlight on page 32.  Ruth Gangbar, well-known food stylist, is branching out with her new endeavour FoodographyPEC - workshops being presented in The County for those wanting to learn learn about food styling and food photography.  Ruth's team has conducted two workshops so far and the third is planned for mid-July. 

Watching Ruth work, you see how intuitively she approaches the set, mixing textures, colour and light.  She pushes for authentic.  No mashed potatoes subbing in for ice cream. It has to be the real deal.  She uses extra tricks though to keep the food looking fresh and sizzling. The magic tools in her massive traveling kit are eclectic. I'm sure airport security would have a fit if she ever took that bag as carry-on. Congrats Ruth and all the best with FoodographyPEC!

You should see how deep the snow is still on my front lawn. I am having a bit of a hard time imagining morels, spring onions and rhubarb springing from the ground before the next Food & Drink issue crosses my threshold. But a girl can dream, can't she?

My Spring-y tastes:

• Cantonese Lemon Chicken (From Perfect Pairings by Heather Trim and James Chatto) 
• Goat Cheese, Garlic & Morel Quiche and Warm Morel, Leek & New Potato Salad and Crab & Chorizo-Stuffed Morels With Garlic Butter (From Morels by Christopher St. Onge)
• Piri Piri Crab Cakes with Lime Mayonnaise (From Riesling Rising by Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic and Michael Fagan)
• Tortello alla Trattoria Monti (From Roman Holiday by Lucy Waverman)
• Buttermilk Pancakes with Salted Maple Cream (From Morning Glories by Jennifer MacKenzie) 
• Shrimp Dumplings in Herbed Broth and Yellow Pepper Minestrone with White Beans & Asparagus and Spring Onion Soup with Blue Cheese Toasts (From Soups For Spring by Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic) 
• Chilorio Taco (From Lucy's California Restaurant Tour by Lucy Waverman)
• Lobster-filled Arepas (From Top 5 To Taste by Julia Aitken)

Plan ahead: The Early Summer issue hits the stores in four weeks and two days on Wednesday, May 1st. 

Tarta de Santiago - My Gluten-Free Easter, Passover and Book Club Cake

Like many book club hosts, I fuss about the food.  As life would have it, this past Tuesday's meeting was no exception.  We are morning bookworms.  Well, truth be told the last of the special ladies left somewhere around 3 pm.  Our only rule for hosting is that there needs to be good strong coffee, decaf for a select few and a pot of hot water for our one teabag carrying, baby pinky pointer.  I, like the rest, do more.  It's a labour of love for sure.

In these times of great indulgence, I try to keep the main choices satisfying but not too heavy.  The fruit salad is a staple starter.  I thought an egg protein dish sans crust could keep our brains firing with thoughtful dialogue.  As our appetites waned, a light cake can be the great finisher.

Wanting a hint of Easter, I found a flourless Almond Cake, subtitled as Tarta de Santiago and adorned with a stenciled cross.  I knew nothing of its pedigree or history.  It turns out the Tarta de Santiago has deep roots in the food culture of Northern Spain.  My ignorance.  It was the picture that drew me in and I liked the cake's simple decoration.  It was Holy Week after all.  In hindsight my quick choice was quite shallow as it may be more of a Passover cake. As luck would have it, I made a fine pick.

It wasn't until after the meeting that I found the time to read more about the Tarta de Santiago and the many, many recipe choices out on the Internet.  Many of them in other languages.  I was pleased to find that from a culinary perspective, the recipe I chose for my inspiration was the one I would have chosen anyway had I put in all those hours beforehand pouring over recipes in order to make the perfect choice.

Why did I like this recipe best?

• It is a light cake in texture, where others are very dense.  This is partly due to separating the eggs and incorporating the sugar and flavourings with the yokes first.  Then the ground almonds are added and most importantly, the stiffened egg whites are folded in gently. I chose to fold in the whites in 4 batches.
• This recipe has less sugar than others.  I also cut back on what was recommended.  With flavourings like zests of orange and lemon, plus almond extract, these scents carry their own nectar.
• It uses no butter.
• It is gluten-free, as this version uses no flour. (When greasing the pan, I dust with powdered sugar.)
• It has a beautiful form.  Since it is a sponge cake, the top stays flat and the side are straight.
• It is approximately 155 calories a slice.  Which by cake standards is nothing short of an Easter miracle.

As for it's history and naming, here are some interesting notes.

• The cake's origins are Galician.
• It was named for Spain's patron saint, Saint James. Hence Santiago. (I had my wits about me enough to use the Cross of Saint James, like most everyone else, for the stenciled pattern on the top of the cake.)
• During the Middle Ages, the pilgrimage to the city of Santiago de Compostela, Galicia was considered the most important pilgrimage for Christians.
• Claudia Roden, author of The Food of Spain, believes that the tarta evolved from a Passover cake brought to Galicia by Jews fleeing Andalusia in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. 
• This cake is very popular and sold all over Santiago de Compostela.  Even more so on Saint James Day on July 25.
• In 2006, Spain filed an application to register the name Tarta de Santiago on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs.  In 2010 it was approved.

Tarta de Santiago (Almond Cake or Saint James' Cake)
Adapted from Claudia Roden, author of  The Food of Spain
Sourced from Epicurious.com
Serves as many as 16 slices

INGREDIENTS
250 grams ground almonds
6  large eggs, separated
150 grams superfine sugar
35 grams powdered sugar
5 ml lemon zest
5 ml orange zest
5 ml pure almond extract
Powdered sugar for dusting

METHOD:
Preheat oven to 350ºF.  Grease a 24-cm springform pan lightly with butter, then dust with powdered sugar.

Beat egg yolks, gradually adding the two sugars until a very pale yellow, almost white in colour.  It will be very stiff.  Make sure to scrape down the sides regularly. Beat in the zests and extract. Stir in the ground almonds. (I prefer to use whole blanched almonds and grind them myself in the food processor. I would not use Marcona Almonds. Do not use roasted almonds.  They need to be raw and preferably skinned.)

With very clean beaters, whip the egg whites until stiff.  Fold about 1/4 of the egg whites into the almond mixture. Make sure it is well mixed. Continue with the next 1/4 of egg whites.  You will find it much easier to fold in gently with each 1/4. Try to fold as gently as possible.

Pour batter into the prepared pan and bake for 40 minutes.  The cake should come away from the pan a bit.  The cake will be a golden brown.  It will spring back to the touch.

Cool on a cake rake before removing the springform ring.  Just before serving, dust the cake with powdered sugar, using a stencil of the Cross of Saint James for decorating.  Remove cake from cake bottom, using a sharp dinner knife or long offset spatula to loosen.  Place gently on a bake stand. Use kitchen tweezers to remove the stencil.

Supporting Tomorrow's Chefs Today: On-line Auction Now Open For Ron Eade Culinary Bursary

The special eBay auction site is now open in support of Algonquin College's Ron Eade Culinary Bursary. Get in on the fun and support a great cause. 39 spectacular auction items await you.

The Algonquin College School of Hospitality and Tourism is launching the bursary with a student-led fundraising dinner this Thursday, March 21.

Event co-ordinators, Scott Warrick and Mario Ramsay, both chef professors at Algonquin College, couldn't be more pleased with how Ottawa has responded to support the launch.

First, the good news of so many impressive auction items pouring in. Then, the dinner tickets sold out quickly. An added bonus has been the generousity shown by those who have chosen to give direct donations to the bursary.

Warrick told me today, "The investment in the bursary thus far means it is already financially viable and ready to go."

Although the dinner is sold out, Warrick and Ramsay have arranged for the auction items to be available to all through a special eBay auction site. The auction will remain open for bids until this Thursday, March 21 at 9:00 pm edt.

To shop, those at the dinner will be placing their bids on the eBay site too. That evening MC Derick Fage of Rogers Daytime Ottawa, will be getting the dinner guests in the dining room whipped into a spending frenzy and you can compete along side them.

It is as easy as 1-2-3, to start shopping today.  If you have an eBay account already, just sign in.  If not, the registration sign-up is straightforward.  Even if your strategy is to play big on the night of the event, make sure your account is set up and ready to go now. Though, you might enjoy some practise bidding beforehand!

I for one have bookmarked this special site (http://stores.ebay.ca/Ron-Eade-Culinary-Bursary-Auction), as well as installed the eBay app on my smartphone. Some of my bids are already in.

For those attending the event and not 'packing' technology, a bank of computers will be available so you can keep shopping throughout the evening.

A number of well-known graduates of the culinary programs at Algonquin College have thrown their support behind the event.  When you check out the auction items their generousity looms large.  Look for the names Michael Moffatt,  John Leung, Walid El-Tawel, Katie Brown Ardington, Patricia Larkin and Anna March to name a few.

The bigger ticket items of special chef dinners in your home are real crowd-pleasers.  I confess to having a personal history of seeking out these types of auction items.  They are ideal for celebrating a very special occasion with close friends and family.  We have even teamed up with other couples to win ourselves a night to remember. Maybe this time it will be your turn.

One of the chef dinners being much talked about includes graduates Patricia Larkin, Chef at Black Cat Bistro, Anna March, Resident Chef at Urban Element, and Katie Brown Ardington Chef de Cuisine at Beckta.  To create an out-of-this-world dining experience, they will team with Pascale Berthiaume of Pascale's All Natural Ice Cream and Marysol Foucault, owner/chef of both Edgar and Odile.

One graduate who is in full support of the event is Patricia Larkin, Chef at Black Cat Bistro.

Patricia Larkin, Chef at Black Cat Bistro. Photo Credit: roneade.com.

I spoke with Chef Larkin recently. Lucky for us that she chose to follow her passion.  She told me that she almost missed her calling.  

"I was taking early childhood education in 2000 and knew I would rather be cooking. But I just couldn't get over the idea of wearing those checkered pants! After a year of walking past the culinary wing, wishing I was in there, I bit the bullet, bought the checkered pants and enrolled in culinary management from 2001-2003."

This bursary means a lot to the students coming through the culinary program. Extra financial support  can make a difference to stemming the tide of the mounting costs for post secondary schooling. Larkin shares her insights.  

"The money would of course be helpful for all the extras that the program requires such as uniforms, knives, tools and books. Also, because the culinary field has become so popular in the last 10 years I suspect more and more students are coming from out of town, which makes cost of living quite expensive for a student. This bursary will give a hard working student the confidence and support to succeed through the program and start their career."

Is Larkin glad she made the program switch from early childhood education to culinary management?  She sure is.  

"I had a very good experience in the culinary management program at Algonquin.I learned a lot and I enjoyed being there. It is what set me up for the career I have now. With a push from Chef/Professor Mario Ramsay, I applied to work at the Fairmont Hotel in Jasper, Alberta after college. I stayed for 2.5 years and came back to Ottawa with more skills and a thicker skin - two things you need in the kitchen."

Asked why we should support the establishment of this bursary, Larkin says,  

"For one, it is a great way to honour Ron Eade's career and all he has done for the culinary field in Ottawa. Also, this bursary is going to not only financially help but also inspire and give confidence to a culinary student on the same path that I took 10 years ago. That support will go a long way."

Do we want a few more Chef Larkins in our kitchens here in Ottawa?  You bet we do.  Here is your chance to make a difference for tomorrow's chefs today. Participate in the eBay auction. Start your bidding.  Bid big and bid often.

NOW ON YOUR RADAR SCREEN

• Setup (or dust off) your eBay account. (Dinner guests that are a bit technology shy can get assistance Thursday evening.)
• If you have a smartphone or iPad, download the eBay app for table side mobile shopping.
• Check out out the eBay auction website before Thursday's dinner and start bidding.
• Not a shopper? Consider a direct donation to the bursary at CanadaHelps.org. [Full tax receipt issued.]
• Dinner guests: Prep your party clothes - Reception starts 5:30 pm. Dinner at 6:30 pm. The Restaurant International at Algonquin College, 1385 Woodroffe Avenue, Ottawa
• More information on the College’s event website

A Birthday Lunch That Celebrated Life

Our book club gals gathered today for a celebratory birthday.  We have no particular protocol in our informal constitution (there is no constitution) on how such events should unfold.  Sometimes a milestone year is a grand affair. Sometimes it commands a lunch out.  Sometimes it is a cake at a regular meeting and sometimes it is nary a whisper.  We are pretty free wheeling that way.

When we do congregate in the name of birthday milestones, it can often be just a side show to the whole outing. Our time together becomes more about sharing all of our lives.  The wonderful triumphs and crushing defeats.  Today we talked more about death than candles. For this group it is the topic du jour. Two had just lost fathers in the past week.  My uncle died just days ago.  Others had passings that they also wanted to share. We are at that age I guess.

Two blog posts I read recently resonated with me today as we confided and comforted each other at our not so birthday-ish lunch.

The first post is one I actually read often as a way of keeping my keel even when I know I need a reminder to stay caring, thoughtful and giving.  I hope you will enjoy it too.  It is by Darren Poke and is called Always Take The High Road.

The second post fresh off the press from Doris Belland is called What Do You Say And Do When Someone Dies?  I appreciated Doris' reminder "Food first, flowers later".

In some ways we are a disparate group with differences spanning age, religion, politics, means, family experiences, and hobbies.  Even our interest in books can be quite diverse. After 13 years together, despite our many differences, I continue to be reminded that I belong to a special group.

Again I came away refreshed and renewed. These outings force me to slow down, let time stand still and just take it all in. It is my chance to rebalance priorities and put people first. To quote the birthday girl, "Life is rich, and enriched with good friends.  Death is a poignant reminder of our transience on this planet."

Yes, in the glowing warmth of the tall, waxy candles, perhaps we did call it a birthday cake.  But in fact, it was a "life" cake.  Today we celebrated life.

“our life is a journey, and if we stop, things don’t go well.” - Pope Francis I

Chef Duo From SAT's Foodlab Import Quebec Terroir "Temps des Sucres" To Ottawa

Chef Michelle Marek handily torches the maple meringue on the maple cream crêpe cake.

I have a bi-polar relationship with multi-course, wine-matched dining out experiences.  Last night's Quebec Terroir "Temps des Sucres" at The Urban Element was no exception.

Shawna Wagman, Food Editor at Ottawa Magazine and our host for CITY BITES LIVE!

Shawna Wagman, Food Editor for Ottawa Magazine was hosting Montreal's Foodlab chefs Seth Gabrielse and Michelle Marek, both formerly from the kitchen of Montreal's bistro Laloux.

Chef Seth Gabrielse shares in the dessert plating.

Shawna's connection to the pair is through Michelle.  Their significant-others were in grad school together at McGill.  My connection to the pair is from dining out a few times at Laloux when they were at the helm. Michelle's cardamom panna cotta with carrot sorbet remains memorable.

Shawna started the soft sell on me back in early December with a hint and a Twitter tease.  The news was formally announced on her Ottawa Magazine blog at the end of January.

Then the dilemma began. Do I go? At $150 plus tax, it is a pricey evening out.  I have a bit of a value shopper bent and struggle to assess premium pricing when I want to indulge. The description was intimating to anyone's health with words like marinated in maple, burnt onion oil and meringue brûlée.

 

As chef Marek said last night regarding these multi-course dinners, "sometimes you feel like you are facing your death at the end of the meal". Truth be told, I am not much of a wine drinker either. Many pours will go unfinished. Oh what to do?

The sale for the 18 tickets seemed to move slowly.  I wondered who in this town was even aware of Gabrielse and Marek's top talents.  They left Laloux in late 2011 for SAT's Foodlab, a not-for-profit, artistic culinary adventure into food research. No kitchen, no phone, no equipment to start, not even water, they chose to see this as opportunity as opposed to adversity. Ego-centric chefs need not apply.

Maybe not celebrity rock star status yet - and I doubt that moniker is actually their ultimate mark of success -  this fledgling food lab is becoming well-known.

Their work is impressive enough to garner attention from the New York Times after just 9 short months at the lab.

TV crews have been all over them. Thankfully there will be an episode coming up where I finally will learn how to make Chef Marek's strudel as she visually will walk us through the method for her well-guarded recipe. Michelle took a shot at running cooking sessions only to find out it was not for her. Hopefully TV will be more her thing.

They are also being featured in an upcoming Bon Appetit Magazine.

Gabrielse and Marek's low key Ottawa profile was partly what pushed me into going last night.  I was hoping my dining confreres were there more out of food curiosity than the buzz that can go with coveting a private dinner with a more recognized name of a star-studded celebrity chef. I don't want to go to say "I was there" or "to be seen". Dining out for me is a quiet, personal affair.

So with a single ticket remaining unsold for days, on Monday, just 5 sleeps away, I moved the event to 'sold out' status. No regrets.

Seth's roots are Dutch and Michelle's are Czech.  To not be born and raised in La Belle Province, means their interpretation for Quebec Terroir "Temps des Sucres" would bring a less traditional perspective.

In the intro to the evening, the chefs were quick to dispel my concern for 'the end of evening hangover'.  They take meal pacing very seriously and feel that it is the responsibility of the kitchen to move you gracefully through the courses - not just your taste buds but also all our digestive and vital organs.  For the most part, they lived up to their promise. Although I thought the pork dish was a bit hefty. Its delicious, tender, maple flavour didn't stop me from finishing and near licking the plate.

Echine de porc marinated in maple and citrus juice with burnt onion oil, grilled green onions, jus, and white vegetable purée.

I gave my dessert a good college try but for me, pork followed by a big slab of goat cheese and then a carb bomb dessert with cream and sugar meant that I was done. Delicious but just too much. I didn't even touch the last pour, a Riesling.

Maple cream crêpe cake with maple meringue brûlée and apple sauce.

Knitted through the evening were fun food finds.

The bread on the table was from a new bakery at Montreal's Jean Talon Market called Joe La Croûte. Owner Daniel Jobin, studied specific techniques of kneading in the south of France with Benoît Fradette, formerly of Montreal's Le Fromentier.

Bread from Joe La Croûte in Montreal's Jean Talon Market.

Our oyster was garnished with heat packed Preservation Society's Caesar Celery.  Montreal-based Preservation Society is known for their small batch preserves.

Whalesbone oysters with Preservation Society's pickled Caesar Celery.

Many star ingredients came from Société-Orignal, a Montreal-based 'rare foods' company.  The cold-pressed sunflower oil and the Balconville vinaigrette on the salad and cheese plate were but a few.

Rye berry salad with roasted squash, kale, shallots, and Balconville vinaigrette.

Fresh Quebec chèvre with Boston lettuce, mixed greens, oat cakes and cold-pressed sunflower oil and espelette.

Société-Orignal is not just a distributor.  They work actively with purveyors to create best of breed products - the sunflower oil coming from a specific stand of plants with maximized sun exposure; the maple syrup developed from a specific part of the woodlot vs. a blend of the farm's full acreage of trees.

Chris Nuttall-Smith describes them better in his October 2012 Globe and Mail article, "Yet the most interesting thing about the venture is how promising its model is for the future of small but innovative family farms. Rather than peddling the usual commodity products, or the typical farmers’ market offerings, Société-Orignal focuses on unique, unknown and under-appreciated foods, and then finds them high-value markets. The appetite for this sort of product, the company is discovering, is limitless so far."  I think we need to keep an eye out for that name.

Lucky for Société-Orignal to be moving into Williams-Sonoma stores, remaining under their label. But maybe not so lucky for us.  I have to wonder when specialized products go nationwide with a chain, how does one preserve their identity around specialized and rare foods, while still maintaining the original standard of high quality.

I even learned a food tip for myself. Seth said he poached his young ramp leaves, laid them flat to freeze and then carefully wrapped them to store. A trick I will try come May when they are in season.  His pickled ramps are based on Tom Collicchio's pickled ramp recipe.  Both leaves and pickles were featured in the seafood dish.

Black bass with ramp royale, ramp leaves, pickled ramps and radishes.

The Urban Element team, including house chef Anna March, did a great job of supporting Shawna and guest chefs with the pace and logistics of the evening.  Their pairings for the meal were Norman Hardie wines from Prince Edward County. Our meal, save dessert, was served at the long communal table.  Place cards were laid out for direction. Full credit for somehow knowing my left-handedness and seating me at the right side of the head, allowing for plenty of wing space as I lifted my fork.

Of course the food was exceptional.  But I think what I enjoyed most of all was the chance to converse with others who also share a genuine love of food. I barely left the table to check our guest chefs in action. When it came time for the Q&A, my list for the chefs was too long.  We didn't even touch a favourite topic of mine - food styling. After all we eat with our eyes. So there in lies some more of that bi-polar feeling.  I come for the tastes and wizardry in the kitchen and I leave reminiscing about the conversation and good company.

Foodlab SAT (Labo Culinaire) is located at 1201, boulevard St. Laurent on the less than posh side of town in Montreal.  They do dinner service Tuesday to Friday from 5 - 10 pm.  Their menus are themed and change typically in two week rotations. Call ahead for reservations 514-844-2033 ext. 225.

Three Weekend Brunches Here in Ottawa-Gatineau

As a couple, our weekend mornings are often lazy and slow to get moving.

The first button pushed as our feet hit the warmth of our kitchen's oak floor, is to rev up Silvia The Espresso Machine. That girl is almost vintage now at 11 1/2 years. She's bullet-proof reliable  We have fun getting all science-y - frothing our milky micro-bubbles, measuring our grinds and weighing the espresso output, all in an effort to pull the perfect shot.

Eventually the curtains are drawn on our full wall of windows, letting the light flood in. No matter how grey and snowy, it brightens our morning nest.

Sometimes there is music. Sometimes CBC. More often than not we just sit quietly together and read. No one more hurried than the other. It is relaxing and easy. Truth be told, it is me who is slowing down for this togetherness feeling.

As time passes, the growling starts and the stomachs call out. That morning feast can be anything from steel cut oats to crêpes and fruit salad. We let the fridge and pantry decide.

But when the mister is not home, my 'type-A, morning girl' personality usurps the agenda. Over the past month I have happily been accepting brunch dates and even venturing on my own.

Here is some of what I have been tasting as I brunched around town.

Domus Cafe [87 Murray Street, Ottawa]: Crispy East Coast Fish Cake with wilted greens, crème fraîche, soft boiled egg and citrus-caper marmalade. $24

gezellig [337 Richmond Road, Ottawa]: Fritatta with chorizo, fresh herbs, chèvre, cherry tomatoes and fingerling home fries. $13

Odile [47 rue Montclair, Hull]: Smoked salmon, poached eggs, capers, Brussels sprouts, fennel and fingerling potatoes. $14

What have I learned? I do like eggs but I like them best soft and jiggly.  Go easy on the carbs. Hold the bread and toast. Load me up on veggies, if you can. They are full flavour and the colour makes for pretty. If you can make a killer coffee, my head will turn. Price and location do matter.

Big bright windows, cozy seats and a relaxing atmosphere will have me feeling like I am right at home.

Supporting Tomorrow's Chefs Today - The Ron Eade Culinary Bursary Launches

Dish prepared by second year student, Chad Hogerland of the Culinary Management Program at Algonquin College. Photo Credit: Chef Mario Ramsay.

Ah, the sizzle of butter hitting the smoking pan. The clanging of stainless ladles. Hot plates on the pass-through. It all gets our juices flowing. Ottawa loves to eat out! 

Our dining landscape has undergone a transformation over the past decade - in part due to the top talent coming from one of our local culinary programs. A program where the students have been continually encouraged, guided and humbly assisted by a local food enthusiast and journalist, Ron Eade, now semi-retired from the Ottawa Citizen where he most recently held the role as Food editor of 14 years.

Ron Eade looks on intently as Algonquin College culinary student, Jennesa Compton listens to instruction from Chef Bob Gelinas. Photo Credit: Anne Waters

The Algonquin College School of Hospitality and Tourism is launching the Ron Eade Culinary Bursary with a student-led fundraising dinner on Thursday, March 21st. They want you to join the party! The evening’s MC, Derick Fage of Rogers Daytime Ottawa, will keep the energy high.

Chefs Scott Warrick and Mario Ramsay, culinary professors at The Algonquin College School of Hospitality and Tourism. Photo Credit: Anne Waters

The bursary is the brainchild of Scott Warrick and Mario Ramsay, both chef professors at Algonquin College, who also give tirelessly for the students.

Chef Warrick says, “Eade has always been one of the culinary programs’ and our students’ biggest supporters.” 

They had considered a tribute dinner to salute Ron for his years as Food editor and as a way to say thank-you. Chef Ramsay said, “That just wasn’t fitting. It had to be bigger. More lasting. Tribute dinners are soon forgotten but a bursary is a legacy.” 

The support so far for the fundraiser has been tremendous and to see the Ottawa community rally behind the school’s culinary students means a lot to them.

Some of the successful and well-known talent in our local kitchens are graduates of Algonquin College. We, the dining public, have been the benefactors of the strength of the school’s program and the commitment these students show to work passionately in this field.

Some will say they have been spurred on by the enthusiasm constantly being conveyed by Ron Eade. Not only does Ron, an accomplished home chef himself, write regularly about the ‘Ottawa Food Scene’, he is a very active participant in food events that allow budding culinary students to showcase their skills.

As the grads team up in this city’s kitchens, Ron has had a passion to inform the public regarding their progress, ideas, and whereabouts.

Hear what some of those graduates have to say:

Chef Walid El-Tawel, Executive Chef at Restaurant e18hteen. Photo Credit: roneade.com

WALID EL-TAWEL, Executive Chef at Restaurant e18hteen:  
"When I heard about Ron stepping down from the Ottawa Citizen I flew my culinary flag at half mast and I think I speak on behalf of most hospitality professionals in Ottawa."

He went on to say that he thinks having a bursary for culinary students is a motivator. “It makes the students work twice as hard in the hopes of receiving it.”

As a 2006 graduate of the Culinary Management Program, Chef Walid is grateful for his schooling. “The Algonquin program taught me a lot. Under the supervision of some great chefs, who pushed me very hard, I came out of the program ready for the work force.”

Chef John Leung, partner in new, yet to be named restaurant located at 87 Clarence Street. Photo Credit: roneade.com.

JOHN LEUNG, Chef and Partner in new, yet to named restaurant located at 87 Clarence St:  
“Ron loves what he does and it shows. Why would anyone attend multi-events across the city in the same day! ”

John has felt Ron’s tenacity first-hand. “My first encounter with Ron was the first Juno award ceremony in Ottawa when I was the chef at Restaurant e18hteen. He wanted to write about what I was serving for the After Party. I told him it was strictly confidential by EMI and I could only tell him the menu after the party. His response was, “Nobody wants to read yesterday’s news.” So we compromised by sneaking him into the party by the back door.”

From the class of 97’s Apprenticeship Program, John agrees bursaries can make a difference. “Not having to worry so much about tuition would be a bonus.”

Chef Leung has fond memories of school and how it helped him grow. “I represented the school to compete in a CCFCC (Canadian Culinary Federation) apprentice black box where I won both at the provincial and national level. I was proud of the support from the school and its faculty. It definitely made me a better chef because of that.”

Katie Brown Ardington, Chef de Cuisine at Beckta Dining & Wine. Photo Credit: roneade.com.

KATIE BROWN ARDINGTON, Chef de Cuisine at Beckta Dining & Wine:
Chef Katie says she has had limited direct interaction with Ron but she sees the difference he makes and has thrown her support behind the fundraiser. “I think this is a great opportunity for the Ottawa food scene to come together and realize the impact and involvement that Ron has had on our industry.”

When she was in school she says there was just a general bursary. “Having a bursary specifically for the culinary program opens opportunities for just those students.”

AUCTION ITEMS CONTINUE TO COME IN:
The generosity of the graduates for this event is attention grabbing. What they are not saying with words, they are saying with deeds.

• Michael Moffatt, Executive Chef at the ‘Beckta Trifecta’ - Beckta, Play and Gezellig, will host a five-course dinner for eight served in your home along with sommelier service.
• Graduates Patricia Larkin, Chef at Black Cat Bistro, Anna March, Resident Chef at Urban Element, and Katie Brown Ardington Chef de Cuisine at Beckta will team with Pascale Berthiaume of Pascale's All Natural Ice Cream and Marysol Foucault owner/chef of Edgar as well as Odile to create an out-of-this-world dining experience.
• Chef John Leung will host a dinner for eight in your home. 

The list goes on:

• Chris Knight, noted television producer, cookbook author and self-described ‘reasonably good cook’ is offering dinner for eight at his grand residence.
• A cocktail party with delicious bites from Thyme & Again Creative Catering and Take Home Food Shop.
• Ottawa Citizen colleague and Dining Out Critic, Peter Hum, invites you to join him at one of his working lunches. 
• Dinners out at a number of Ottawa’s fine restaurants.
• Plus cookbooks, visits to wine country, overnight stays here in the city, cultural events and food creations.

Chefs Ramsay and Warrick are keen to get the community behind growing the bursary. Although tickets are limited due to space, they are opening up the auction to all.

Ten days before the fundraiser dinner, auction items will go up on a special eBay on-line auction site. Stay tuned for more details for how it will roll out.

Meanwhile, start planning your bids - and plan big. After all, it’s for the students.

A detailed list of auction items is being updated regularly on the event’s website. Keep checking here to see the list grow.
 
HOW CAN YOU HELP SUPPORT OUR NEXT CROP OF TOP CHEF TALENT?

• Come to the dinner. It’s a four-course meal with wine, prepared and served by Algonquin College School of Hospitality graduating students. The reception starts with canapés and cocktails.
• Be a very keen and generous shopper for the full line-up of live and silent auction items.
• Buy your ticket today through Eventbrite. Tickets are limited.
• Can’t make it? You can still shop for the auction items through the fundraiser’s eBay on-line auction site to launch on March 11. 
• Consider giving a donation to the bursary for a full tax receipt at CanadaHelps.org. 

At a recent retirement dinner, these words were captured in a video by Ottawa Tourism Director of Communications, Jantine Van Kregten, to best describe Ron by his friends, peers and industry supporters – honest, passionate, full of integrity, generous, relentless, booster, interesting, entertaining, excitable, straight-shooter, legendary, tenacious, unique, curious, doer, fair-minded, friend.

So it comes as no surprise that the Ron Eade Culinary Bursary will be awarded to a culinary student after their first semester, who has demonstrated a commitment to their craft and who has, like Ron, demonstrated passion and determination to succeed.

It promises to be a fun-filled evening with mouth-watering food and enticing auction items - all going to support a great initiative. Come out that night to meet Ron and many supporting members of Ottawa’s food community.

IN SHORT, THE PARTICULARS OF THE EVENING:

• Thursday, March 21 - Reception 5:30 pm; Dinner at 6:30 pm
• The Restaurant International at Algonquin College, 1385 Woodroffe Avenue, Ottawa
• $95/pp Tickets purchase through Eventbrite (tax receipt for portion of ticket price)
• Live and Silent Auction
• Master of Ceremonies: Derick Fage, Rogers Daytime Ottawa
• Direct donations accepted through CanadaHelps.org (tax receipt for full amount)
• More information on the College’s event website