Winter Bites Dining at the Lindenhof European Restaurant

The Winter Bites menu for the Lindenhof European Restaurant was all the temptation I needed to check out their new location at 268 Preston Street near Gladstone. Well, new to me. They have been there for almost 2.5 years now but my last visit to the Lindenhof was back in the day when they were located near Richmond and Carling.

European fare is 'stick to the ribs' comfort food. A good match for a lousy January winter night in Ottawa. Not a calorie was spared. Because of the storm warning in effect, the place was empty save for our table and another that cabbed in shortly after we arrived. (Cabbing would have been a good idea.)

We received great service and thoughtful attention to the pace of our meal. I appreciated that.

We were served beautiful multi-grain buns with butter (Lactantia!) but took a pass, knowing many calories lay ahead.

Beer is the right beverage for this menu. I picked their 17 oz Lindenhof draught ($6). Not heavy at all.

Our first course was the Zweibelkuchen, a baked caramelized onion tart. It came accompanied by a dill sour cream. This dish is normally $7.



We both picked the Jaeger Schnitzel, pork fried schnitzel with assorted roasted mushrooms in a red wine reduction with spaetzle and braised red cabbage. This dish is normally $18.



The dessert was Hall's Apple Strudel with Bourbon Whipped Cream. This dish is normally $6.



The Jaeger Schnitzel stole the show. There was a distinct smoky flavour throughout the dish that complemented the spaetzle and the pork. I love braised red cabbage and wished there was more but there was no plate real estate left to allow for that.

The onion tart was tasty enough and the dill sour cream was a refreshing partner. I can only guess how rich it was and may take a pass next time.

A strudel is a predictable dessert in a German restaurant. Not a problem though. I dug out the cinnamony apple and then went for the strudel. The top was flaky but the bottom too dense.

Our Winter Bites menu of choice was priced at $30, which works out to a dollar off on the 3-course prix fixe combination. A bit of math I figured out later. I don't often order an appetizer and dessert with dinner and in hindsight, I think I would have just ordered the Schnitzel, as it was very filling. I pushed hard but still didn't finish. In fact, next time I would just order off the menu.

If you are coming to the Lindenhof before January 28th to try their Winter Bites menus, go with a big appetite. You will enjoy the food experience but you are going home full. More than full.

Lindenhof European Restaurant
268 Preston Street
Ottawa, Ontario
613.725.3481
website: www.thelindenhof.com
Facebook: Lindenhof
Twitter: TheLindenhof





Check the Winter Bites website for details on the 29 participating restaurants.

Winter Bites Lunching at The Pelican Fishery & Grill

Since the Winter Bites menus started pouring into the "WinterBites by Ottawa Magazine" Facebook page, I have been spinning through the wall photos like some kind of roledex. Constantly reading and re-reading.


[Image Source: Ottawa Magazine]

I love eating seafood when I go out, since I find most places do a better job than I can do in my own kitchen. I appreciate the fresh, well chosen selection. And I appreciate the fuss that goes into making a special dish.

It should be no surprise then that I fixated on the Pelican Fishery & Grill's lobster bisque, which was being offered on both their lunch and dinner Winter Bites menus.

I admit this sudden cold snap has kept me cocooned the past few days but when I had to head out for my bi-annual visit to the dentist, I stole the opportunity to stop in at the Pelican being nearby.

The Pelican Fishery & Grill is located in the Blue Heron Mall, a strip mall anchored by Farm Boy on Bank Street just north of Heron Road. The outside is the usual unassuming look you can expect from a restaurant located in a strip mall. But once inside you see the wide display cases loaded down with the latest catch laid out on crushed ice. Sharing the space is the restaurant, which seats about 40 on copper topped tables.



I arrived at lunch just as they were opening at 11:30 am. Some food critiques will say never eat fish on a Monday, questioning its freshness. Imagine my surprise to see 9 reserved signs dotting almost half the tables. I appeared to be a lucky walk-in. As the first to arrive, I was still able to get a seat reasonably close to the windows.

I took note that the steady flow of clientele following me were greeted by name and ushered to their 'regular' seats. A strong following of repeats! For sure a good sign of things to come. For a moment I actually felt a little awkward. Was I sitting in someone else's 'pew'? I might have expected such a crowd on Fridays with those faithful to their strong Catholic traditions, but on a Monday? Impressive.

Warm multi-grain buns arrived promptly. No whipped butter! Thank you. Lactantia happens to be my favourite of the big butters.



An advantage of being first for lunch, I had all the attention of the wait staff for some moments before the busyness set in. I lapped it all up. Right down to the unsolicited coaster slipped under the northwest leg of my table to take away the 'teeter'. I wouldn't have asked, not wanting to be a bother. Thanks for noticing the small things.



I knew I was there for the lobster bisque and dessert was already established to be maple crème brûlée. Now to pick between Coconut Shrimp or Wild Pacific Halibut. I went for the fish, though quite concerned about portions. Thankfully I took a pass on breakfast.



The bisque came in a small cup. A perfect starter size. The texture was velvety smooth. The flavour, deep with the heat of cayenne and a swish of brandy to embolden the seafood broth. Parceled secretly at the bottom of the bowl were 3 or 4 bite-size morsels of lobster meat. A pleasing treasure to uncover. The small helping of bisque was deceivingly fillling.

Then onto the main.



The lunch size portion of halibut vanished but I came up shy on the fries. A shame too since they were great fries. A creamy, buttery potato flesh with a crisp outer layer. Not too crisp though. I liked the dressing on the slaw as well. I tend to use more onion and Dijon but I think the more mellow flavour was a better complement to the mildness of the battered halibut. The same could be said for the tartar sauce. I was left wanting for a more relishy zip. This fish was very nicely done. I like my batter a bit more crispy, more of a tempura. I think that is a matter of preference. Overall, I really enjoyed my main.



The problem with a 3-course prix fixe menu is that your appetite can run ashore before you get to the pièce de résistance. In this case, the maple crème brûlée. I have had many crème brûlée in this town and this one rates in my top 5. Besides the silky custard, I was happy for the deeper, more narrow dish. With less surface area to 'brûlée', there is a better custard to sugar ratio to my way of thinking. The brûlée was still reasonably thick and very evenly fired. The maple flavour shone through but was not overpowering. The garnish of the raspberry and blueberries freshened each bite. I was satisfied with my decision to forgo a good portion of my fries.



The Winter Bites 'deal' at the Pelican means the dessert is essentially free. I was delighted to be tempted back to this gem of a place as it has been years since we have been there, not being in our neighbourhood.

If you are considering the Pelican Grill for your Winter Bites adventure, you will be pleased you made the trip. All round it was a top notch experience.

Winter Bites runs until January 28th. Check the Winter Bites website for details on the 29 participating restaurants.

Pelican Fishery & Grill
1500 Bank Street
Ottawa, Ontario
613.526.5229
website: www.pelicanfisheryandgrill.com
Facebook: Pelican Fishery & Grill

Committed Again. 2012 CSA Food Basket From Roots And Shoots Farm

My summer eating is again going to consist of fresh, local, organic vegetables such as kale, beets, carrots, zucchini, lettuce, and tomatoes. This morning I renewed my subscription for my 2012 CSA food basket with Roots and Shoots Farm.

Roots and Shoots Farm is going into their 3rd season and so am I. A half share (less than $300) suits our family best. We will receive 8 baskets every other week, starting the end of June and going into October.

Roots and Shoots will be opening up subscriptions to their waiting list in February. Are you interested? Here is where you can sign up.

Below are some of my food baskets from this past season. Click on the picture to see more details from that week.

Looks delicious, doesn't it? Are you considering joining a CSA farm this summer? It likely is a good time to start looking around.


[Thursday, June 30, 2011]


[Thursday, July 14, 2011]


[Thursday, July 28, 2011]


[Thursday, August 11, 2011]


[Thursday, August 25, 2011]


[Thursday, September 8, 2011]


[Thursday, October 6, 2011]

If you want to learn more about the farm, the contact information for Roots and Shoots Farm is:
ROBIN TURNER
robin@rootsandshootsfarm.com
www.rootsandshootsfarm.com
613.897.8975

Winter Bites Ottawa - Why On Earth Would I Do It?

[Image Source: Ottawa Magazine]

Winter Bites starts tomorrow.

Ottawa Magazine has teamed with local restaurants in the deep of winter to promote their good eats by offering 3-course prix fixe menus for lunch and dinner (some establishments are only doing dinner). The promotional period runs from Thursday, January 12th through to the 28th.

Typically there is a lunch choice of either $15 or $20. And dinner choices are $30 and $40.

I have been tracking this event out of the corner of my eye since it was first announced at the end of October. At first, I was quite 'beige' to the idea. Always weighing the value proposition, I needed content to get me to commit. That crisp, fresh, snappy blue, white, grey and red logo kept me watching as new news rolled in.

Eventually the list grew and the tweets began to stream. Winter Bites is now up to 29 participating restaurants. By contrast, Toronto's Winterlicious event started with 36 restaurants in their first year a decade ago. They are approaching their 10th year as Winterlicious kicks off at the end of the month. They are now up to a whopping 175 participating restaurants. By that measure, Ottawa's first year of Winter Bites appears to be a success.

So why on earth would I do it? Why would you do it? Who eats out in January?

• Maybe you, like me, missed out on seeing a number of good friends over the busy month of December. I personally am taking time in January to catch up.
  
• If guests are coming to town to enjoy all that winter in Ottawa has to offer, some are picking January over February to avoid the big Winterlude crowds. Or as some affectionately call it, 'Waterlude'. Ottawa has seen its fair share of mild Februarys.
• Here is a chance to try out some restaurants on the hesitation list - hesitation because of what I may have heard; a prior 'meh' experience but think they deserve a second chance; just don't know that much about them; it feels like it's too far to travel. A prix fixe menu says 'deal' and in some small way minimizes the risk of taking a chance.
  
• For those pushing their Christmas parties into January because December's dance card was too full, it will be a way to take on an event at a great price.
• I never warmed to the Groupon concept. I want to pay a fair price for what I receive. Groupon deals make me feel like all the risk is being born by the restaurant. I want to support local and I want to see these businesses thrive. They can't give their food away for 'free'. A prix fixe menu event like Winter Bites seems like a great way to court potential new customers where both sides can win.
• Many of us cocoon in January solely because of the weather. With these constant mild spells, I want to be outside, not in. Let's hope this keeps up from the 12th to the 28th.
• The price point for Winter Bites is much lower than many choices with Taste of Winterlude, another fine food event starting at the end of the month. There are plenty of people wanting to watch their dollar but also enjoy Ottawa's eating scene. Nice to have something for everyone.
  

So what do I need to actually commit and make plans?

• Well, first I need to line up some great company with my wacky schedule. My friends 'catch up' list is long. Already a challenge with two invites from those planning parties at non Winter Bites establishments. (I have made my pitch but have no say in the restaurant pick.)
  
• Secondly, I need to see menus. If I am jumping into this event, I want to be lured in. Tell me what you are going to offer for lunch and dinner. If it's a lunch date I am on and you are just participating in the evening, I will be taking a pass on you. BTW, my preference is for lunch dates. I crave daylight!

Naturally, I have seen a lot of repetition on the menus so far, as 'winter fare' is popular now. And that's okay. It gives it all a competitive feel. Perhaps a chance to crown the best crème brûlée in town.

Probably the easiest way to peruse the many menus is to go to the Winter Bites Facebook page and cruise through the images in their wall photo library. This has been so helpful for me to start my Winter Bites battle plan.

Winter Bites is here to take a bite out of Ottawa's winter. Are you making plans to be a part of it? I would love to hear your picks and why!

.................... [Image Source: Ottawa Magazine]

LCBO Food & Drink Magazine - Winter Issue 2012

Thin is in. As usual, the Winter issue of the LCBO's Food & Drink magazine sends the subliminal message in its January issue, that like us, they too are slimming down this month. Although almost a third of the size of the Holiday issue, it still packs a punch with great comfort recipes to see us through the remaining dark days of winter.

Here is what gave me tummy rumbles this issue:

• Spicy Chilean Shrimp (From Value Added by James Chatto & Lucy Waverman)
• Dumplings with Crispy Sage & Sherry Brown Butter (From Hot Potato by Leeanne Wright)
• Seared Chicken with Mexican Mole Sauce & Lamb Shanks Braised with Cinnamon and Honey (From Sweet on Savoury by Michael Fagan & Julia Aitken)
• Fig and Roasted Walnut Salad (From Enlightened Entertaining by Leslie Beck)
• Microwave Rosemary & Black Pepper Chips & Caramelized Onion Dip (From Champion Chips by Heather Trim)
• Steamed Grouper Japanese Style (From Cooking Clinic by Lucy Waverman)
  

What's New by Julia Aitken caught my eye. Everybody seems to be talking about Rioja. I think I'll be doing a 'me too' and check out the Beronia Tempranillo Rioja. I like the price, coming in under $12. Also the Nøgne Ø Imperial Stout just might be my secret weapon in the annual chili cook off I now enter each March.

Did you know that the Niagara-on-the-Lake Icewine Festival is on from January 13 to 29? Neither did I. Here is more info.

A fan of the LCBO Playlist? Rick Shurman and Earl Torno's Winter Playlist will keep you warm. In fact, downright hot and bothered. Whether warming up a winter night and or priming for Valentine's Day, you might want to load up your tunes with the likes of Sometimes When We Touch by Dan Hill, Let's Get It On by Marvin Gaye and Wonderful Tonight by Eric Clapton. Check it out on iTunes.

Last but not least, a big WOW for Ottawa's own Claudio Fracassi in Cynthia David's Spotlight segment. Who in the Capital doesn't know The Soup Guy. Claudio spreads soup love in the bowl AND with song. Congrats Claudio!

Plan ahead: The Spring issue hits the stores 8 weeks from today on Wednesday, March 7th.

I Love Food But I Love People More

I love food but I love people more.

For us, 2012 will be the beginning of a new normal. This year we have been touched by loss, as have people with connections to us - some very, very special.

When our dear loved ones leave us, they change lives. With 2011 hours away from drawing to a close, I reflect on the size of their wave.

To all of you facing new normals, our heartfelt wishes for good things ahead in 2012.

***

REST IN PEACE

Margaret - March 26
Minerva - March 27
Bryan - March 31
Ursula - April 25
Leona - May 3
Gary - May 19
Ruth - August 8
Willie - August 12
Brian - August 22
Lou - October 8
Donald Robert - October 14
Mary Jane - October 17
Donald Grant - November 9
Betty - December 25

Vaniljekranse - Denmark's Christmas Wreath Cookie

If only one cookie is made in Danish homes at Christmas time it would likely be vaniljekranse. (The English would say vanillakranse. My mother often wrote it as vanillekranse.) Pronunciation is always a challenge for young children. As such, we just took it upon ourselves to use our own pet name, 'hole cookies'. (Or would that be 'whole cookies'?)

When we were just wee, I remember my mother making so many Christmas cookies that she kept them in large cherry pails. This was one of those cookies that was made en masse. I would only be guessing, as a small child's sense of perspective is often grander than reality, but I would say that she made at least 4 batches of vaniljekranse. After all, it was my father's favourite.

As it was in many homes, my mother took on the leadership role of creating the spirit of Christmas in ours. The month of December was brimming with anticipation as we all did our part to prepare and develop the feeling of 'hygge'.

There was the trip to the back woods to find the perfect spruce tree. She had final say before it was cut down and hauled home on the toboggan. She picked out the ornaments, many of them home-crafted with her supervision.

The collection of Christmas decorations were strategically placed about the home. Some did not survive our small hands or clumsy moves. One St. Nicolas in particularly was almost fully decapitated. But every year he was again tenderly placed out on the shelf with his head readjusted in place, secured only by a small section at the back of his neck.

The Christmas dinner itself had many traditional dishes reserved for special occasions and sometimes just this once a year.

But it was really the steady flow of Christmas baking throughout the year's closing month that had us feeling the special day nearing. That feeling of 'hygge' was easily achieved.

When she passed away, we made a pact to keep the tradition of her beautiful Danish Christmas cookies a part of our celebration time together, each picking our own favourite to make for our day of gathering. My choice was made for me since it was agreed that I would 'inherit' the implement that actually produces the wreath-shaped cookie.

It has been 8 Christmases now that we have been striving for our mother's perfection. I sense that she would be very pleased.




TIPS:

I buy my ammonium carbonate at the Swiss Pastries store at Carlingwood Mall. It comes in a glass test tube. They also sell ammonium bicarbonate in a similar tube. Read the label carefully. Ammonium carbonate is an important ingredient as it is what gives the cookie its crisp snap while allowing the cookie to not be dry. I have also seen the ingredient at middle eastern grocery stores such as the Mid East Food Centre on Belfast Road near St. Laurent Blvd and the Queensway.
*** UPDATE *** Swiss Pastries is no longer open in Ottawa.

If you can't find vanilla pods, use 2 teaspoons of pure extract. In fact make sure the almond extract is also pure. Artificial extracts will not yield the rich flavours that make this cookie so unique. Using a vanilla pod is worth the effort though.

I buy my ground almond at Rainbow Natural Foods on Richmond Road near Britannia. They keep their product refrigerated vs. in the dry bins to maintain its freshness and keep it from going rancid.

If I want to make double the cookies, I still make each batch singularly as not to over handle the dough. When I made two batches this year, I decided to count the cookies. We made 35 dozen.


VANILJEKRANSE/VANILLEKRANSE/VANILLAKRANSE

2 vanilla pods
500 grams all-purpose flour
250 grams sugar
125 grams ground almonds
1/2 teaspoon ammonium carbonate
375 grams salted butter
2 teaspoons pure almond extract
2 eggs, lightly beaten

Cut the vanilla pod lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with the tip of the knife. Put in with a wee bit of the sugar to be used for the recipe to help mix it through the dough and avoid clumping, as it is quite moist.

Measure the flour, sugar, ground almonds and ammonium carbonate. Mix well. Cut in the butter with a pastry cutter until the butter is in the form of very small pebbles. Drizzle the extracts and egg mixture over the dough. Incorporate the wet ingredients. Work the dough with your hands until it forms a ball. If it feels a bit sticky, add just a dusting of flour. If it is too sticky, the cookies won't hold their ridges. Do not overwork the dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least an hour.

Use the small star hole in the press plates for the meat grinder.



Put the chilled dough through the grinder and push out a long rope of dough through the small star pattern. Try to keep the dough as chilled as possible, keeping portions in the fridge until you need to refill the hopper. The ridges of the star pattern will stay intact more so when the dough is still chilly. To keep the long rope consistent, the hopper needs to stay reasonably full and you will need to push down on the dough in the hopper to keep forcing the dough into the grinder. Watch your fingers though!

The ropes are then cut into 4" lengths. I create a 'jig' in order to move very quickly with my 4" cuts. It ensures a consistent size and shape of cookie. If you have a piece at the end of the long rope that is much shorter than 4", it goes back into the hopper.



Join the ends to form a wreath. Try to minimize the handling of the rope as you do this. Place on an ungreased baking sheet. (Some prefer to cover their pans with parchment paper.)



(I was thrilled to have my niece helping me this year!)

Bake the cookies at 350ºF for 10-12 minutes or until they are slightly golden. Let them rest and cool on the pan for 5 minutes before removing.

Store in an air tight container. Vaniljekranse cookies freeze well.

Coconut Lime Clouds - Holiday issue of LCBO's Food & Drink

A few things drew me to the Coconut Lime Clouds in the Holiday issue of the LCBO Food & Drink magazine. First, I love lime. Second, I love coconut. Third, it is a sweet that can be enjoyed by my party guests with a gluten sensitivity. Full credit to Christopher St. Onge at Food & Drink for yet another beautiful recipe.

Tips:

Bring your eggs to room temperature. Don't miss this important step. It maximizes the volume when beating the eggs.

Make sure to add the sugar gradually to the fluffy whites when beating. If you add it too fast, your eggs will 'fall'.

Be careful not to over beat your egg whites.

Go easy on the cornstarch. Do not pack it when measuring. It helps to keep the meringue 'dry' but you don't want an overwhelming cornstarch taste.

Make sure you have a solid 2 teaspoons of the lime zest. It really gives the cookie zing. The Lee Valley microplane rasp is great for getting the perfect zest.

When the cookies have completed their second hour in the oven with the heat off, continue their cooling on the kitchen counter. Leaving them to cool in the oven will mean further baking (all be it at a very low heat) and will make them more crunchy. (Though, perhaps a texture you are striving for.)

When you serve them on a red plate or a small white plate on a red tablecloth, their subtle lime green will be more pronounced on contrast.



COCONUT LIME CLOUDS
Authored by: Christopher St. Onge, Holiday issue of the LCBO Food & Drink
Yield: 2 dozen cookies

1 cup sweetened coconut
2 teaspoons finely grated lime zest
1/4 cup cornstarch, scant
2 egg whites, room temperature
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 cup superfine sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 200ºF.

In a small mixing bowl, combine coconut, lime zest and cornstarch. Set aside.

In a large bowl, using an electric mixer beat egg whites and cream of tartar until foamy. Gradually add sugar and continue beating until mixture holds stiff peaks. Add vanilla extract and blend briefly to combine.

Fold in coconut mixture by hand.

Drop a scant tablespoonful at a time onto a parchment-lined cookie sheet, allowing 1 inch between each cookie. Bake for 1 hour. Turn oven off and continue baking for an additional hour. Allow to cool completely before removing from parchment.

Bacon Jam Meets The New Nordic Cuisine

For today's mid-morning feast I used my homemade bacon jam in a modern day version of smørrebrød, Denmark's open-faced sandwich. Although there are dozens of very traditional and precise constructions for smørrebrød, I have had a hard time sticking to conventional recipes.

One food blog I read faithfully is Danish Open Sandwiches (Smørrebrød) by Marcus Schioler. It is out of Montreal of all places and showcases many classic recipes of the beautiful things that go into architecting authentic smørrebrød. I am in awe at the food work he has done on the blog in just one year. It really is impressive. And inspiring.

Tending to just go with what's on hand, tastes that I think will work and a look that is attractive, I have done my own 'smørrebrød' thing when I load up layers on a sturdy bread base.

Perhaps my favourite post by Marcus would be a recent one titled New Nordic Open-Faced Sandwiches. Marcus frees me from my guilt of being reckless in my smørrebrød build. In this post, Marcus details the New Nordic Cuisine manifesto and I find out I might be okay. The most important thing to keep in mind though is to source your food locally. Already a mantra in our home, I think I am reasonably safe.

So how did I get to making bacon jam? Bacon jam is not typical Danish fare. You won't find the recipe in the century old Frøken Jensens Kogbog. However, the Danes do love bacon and it often shows up on smørrebrød in some form - the rendered lard as a spread or the crisped bacon as a layer or a topping.

Throughout 2011 I kept hearing the phrase 'bacon jam'. Anything bacon is good, right? But what really is bacon jam? What makes it jam? Is it made with fruit? My curiousity was piqued.

Then I finally tasted it. Two presentations at Savour Stratford's Tasting Tent event incorporated bacon jam into their dishes. Chef Nick Benninger of Nick and Nat's Uptown 21 in his 5 way "Porkapoluza" and Chef Sean Collins & Greg Kuepfer of Pazzo Ristorante as a topper on their arincini balls.

Shortly after that spectacular experience, I was reading that Skillet Street Food's bacon spread was being showcased at Toronto's All The Best Fine Foods where owners are supporters of the local food movement. (Though, interestingly, Skillet Street Food is American.)

But the craze doesn't stop. Since those jarred beauties have been tucked away in my fridge, a fellow food blogger, Kelly Brisson, demonstrated her bacon jam creation on a local morning show. Loblaws grocery chain is also on the bandwagon with their President's Choice Black Label Bacon Marmalade.

My prediction? Expect to see more applications of bacon jam out there in 2012. Perhaps a North American focused condiment for now. Let's see if this trend takes hold around the globe.

May I present my Breakfast Smørrebrød - Bacon Jam meets The New Nordic Cuisine.



BREAKFAST SMØRREBRØD
1 slice of Art-is-in Bakery's Crazy Grain bread
Bacon Jam, spread thickly and to the edge
Scrambled eggs made with scallions and local cream
Salt and pepper
Oven roasted tomato, chopped (I made and froze in October)
Dollop of bacon jam
Kiss of sour cream
Garnish of fresh cilantro, chopped

BACON JAM
Adapted from recipes by Martha Stewart and @Yzhalia

750 gr bacon
2 cooking onions, diced finely
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
1/4 cup maple syrup
3/4 cup port
1 1/2 tablespoons molasses

In a large skillet, render the bacon over medium-high heat. It is easier to do it if the bacon has been cut into chunks first. You want the bacon to be cooked but not crisped. Remove the bacon pieces from the pan and drain on paper towels.

Pour off the the rendered fat. But don't discard. It can be kept in the fridge and used for other purposes. (Wonderful for the preparation for hash browns for example. A Dane will love it as a spread on rye bread.)

Using a tablespoon of the fat, sauté the onions and garlic until the onions are translucent. Add the apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, maple syrup, port and molasses and bring to a boil, deglazing the roasty bits of bacon (the 'fond'). After a few minutes add the bacon.

Pour the bacon stew into a Dutch oven if you have a very low simmer on your cooktop or a slow cooker set to high. Leave uncovered. Cook for approximately 4 hours until the liquid is very sticky and syrupy. It may take less time in the Dutch oven.

When you think it is done, transfer the bacon stew to your food processor and pulse it until you have a consistency that leaves small pieces but is not a purée. If you feel it is too runny, return it to the skillet and bring it to a boil for a few minutes. With the sugars in the mixture, it won't take long to thicken. When you use it, you don't want it to 'run'. It should be the consistency of a 'jam'.

Fill sterilized 125 mL jars to 1/2" from the top. Seal with lids and rings that have been scalded. Keep in the refrigerator for up to a month.

LOCAL SOURCES:

Bacon - Bearbrook Game Meats Inc. purchased at the Ottawa Farmers' Market, Lansdowne Park
Onions - Roots and Shoots Farm, Manotick Station, outside of Ottawa, purchased at the Ottawa Farmers' Market, Lansdowne Park
Garlic - Abbey Hill Farms, Richmond, outside of Ottawa

Crazy Grain Bread - Art-is-in Bakery, Ottawa
Eggs - Bekings Poultry Farm, Oxford Station, outside of Ottawa, found in many specialty grocery stores around Ottawa, including Brian's Butchery
Tomatoes - Waratah Downs Organic Farm, Iroquios, south of Ottawa, purchased at the Main Street Market

Finskbrød - Denmark's Black Tie Shortbread

Finskbrød is Denmark's version of the Christmas shortbread. One observation of my Scandinavian heritage is that everything tastes better with almonds. So it is no surprise that they have decorated this worldly classic with 'their' signature nut for extra taste and texture.

Like all great shortbreads, finskbrød is particularly light, buttery and ever so tender but firm. They pretty much melt in your mouth. The sugar/ground almond topping adds an extra je ne sais quoi that takes it from semi-formal to black tie. A beautiful food presentation is characteristic of Danish hospitality.

Maybe you have enjoyed many thistle stamped shortbreads over the years. Could this be the Christmas your cookie platter hops over a border or two?

* If you are interested in a variation, this latest recipe from Berlingske is a twist on the classic and has a spot of cognac in the dough. It is also less sweet than the recipe I make. If your Danish is rusty, Google translate does a terrific job. What I like about this recipe is that the almond used for the topping is made from a raw almond with the skin remaining. I think it is a sharp look if you want to go 'upscale rustic'.  I have since switched to topping my cookie with ground raw almonds and pearl sugar.

FINSKBRØD

COOKIE DOUGH:
500 grams all-purpose flour
350 grams butter, cool but not chilled
125 grams granulated sugar

TOPPING:
1 egg, beaten
3 tablespoons pearl sugar
3 tablespoons ground almonds (raw if possible - the skins add some colour)

Weigh the flour and sugar. Mix together. Cut in the butter until the pieces are very small. Work together with hands until a ball forms.

Wrap the dough and let it rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375ºF.

Roll the dough to a thickness of 1/4".



With cookie cutter or knife, cut dough in 3/4" long strips and then on an angle every 2" to form a diamond shape, technically parallelograms.



Brush on beaten egg. Combine the equal parts ground almond and sugar. Sprinkle the almond/sugar mixture over the cookie dough and make sure all cookies are well covered.



Using a small offset spatula, gently lift each cookie and place on an ungreased baking sheet. They will rise a bit and also spread out a bit, but they can be placed reasonably close together on the cookie sheet.



Bake in 375ºF oven until golden brown. Check them at 10 minutes to see how they are coming along. Rotate the pan 180º for the last few minutes. In my oven and with my pans I find 12 minutes works well.

TIPS:

• Use fresh butter. This is critical. My favourite butter is Lactantia. When I buy it, I store the extra bricks in the freezer until I need it in order to preserve its freshness.

• Use salted butter for this recipe. Unsalted butter will leave a bland taste. The balance of salt in the Lactantia butter is to my taste.

• Roll the dough between two sheets of wax paper. This way you avoid adding more flour to the dough and throwing off the balance of the rich buttery taste. (I push in the edges to re-form them because they will split apart during rolling.)

• Egg wash the cookies and sprinkle the almond/sugar mixture BEFORE they are placed on the pan. Not only is it faster, this minimizes the mess on the pan and potential over baking of many small sugary nutty crumbs.

• Cut the diamond shapes before putting on the topping. This allows you to pull away the imperfect pieces of dough at the edges so that the extra dough it can rolled again and not wasted.

• Make sure to use fresh nuts. 

East & Main Bistro - Wellington in Prince Edward County

Tonight the executive chef of East & Main Bistro of Wellington, Ontario in Prince Edward County is competing in the regional Gold Medal Plates competition in Ottawa. Lili Sullivan has been the chef at East & Main since 2009.

My first experience with this place occurred when we took a weekend vacation to the County at the beginning of June this year. But the closest we came to eating Lili Sullivan's fine foods was a box lunch on a farm tour as part of the Great Canadian Cheese Festival. Though it wasn't any old box lunch by my way of thinking. I loved every bit of the vegetarian sandwich wrap, salad, to-die-for brownie and extra fixings.

A few months before I read through Ron Eade's Omnivore's Ottawa blog that Chef Sullivan was going to be participating in Gold Medal Plates come November.

A great box lunch doesn't necessarily give you great insight into whether someone can capture the GMP crown. I needed an excuse to return and sit in for a fuller East & Main experience.

That chance came last month when returning to Ottawa from an out of town trip. Not a lover of the steady hard pavement of the 401 with its unpredictable truck traffic, I meandered off the highway past Brighton to take in the County. And with luck, catch lunch at East & Main. Fall had set in and the drive down Highway 33 was beautiful. The Loyalist Parkway curves by Lake Ontario just before it heads into Wellington. I arrived remarkably rested.



Owners Kimberly Humby and David O'Connor understood the clientele that would enjoy their bistro when they opened two years ago. As I sat down for lunch, my keen people watching instincts told me that I was surrounded by locals, regular visitors and tourists alike. And of course, the very food focused curious, like me. This is a destination place.

The interior is welcoming. Upscale touches to the finishings but still a cozy feel. In one of the bay windows they have placed a dining room table that can comfortably seat 6. On this day, it was occupied by four well-dressed ladies that, by my estimation, made this outing a regular event. In the other bay, were smaller groupings of tables to make room for a full wall buffet of their homemade preserves.

The menu offered 4 appetizers - soup, salad, trio of tapenades & pita crisps, and a pâté plate. There were also 6 sandwich choices ranging from $10 to $14. They came with your choice of soup, salad or frites. The 4 mains ranged from $12 - $13. Pasta, stew, quiche and a composed salad.

For my sandwich I went with one of the new offerings on the menu. Lobster and shrimp roll with smoked tomato tartar sauce on mini pastry house rolls from Pastry House in Picton. (The same bakery that supplies The Buddha Dog their great rolls.) Pastry House rolls are some of the best I have ever tasted. They risked stealing the show; however, the seafood filling was superb. Not to mention a handsome portion. I chose to have it with the soup du jour, leek and asparagus. I loved the creamy, silky texture and full flavour but I am not a gal who goes in for big croutons. I would have enjoyed a garnish with a bit more of a dressy look. My sandwich plate rang in at $14.



I was likely full enough after the sandwich and shouldn't have considered dessert, knowing that I had a sedentary 3 hour drive ahead of me. But the menu beckoned.

I passed on the Mexican chocolate cake, crème brûlée, honey panna cotta and lemon curd tart. Instead, I chose the fresh berry shortcake: cardamom pound cake with macerated berries and cream. ($8.00) Being a Dane, cardamom is a much loved spice in baking. The cake had the balance of denseness needed to stand up to the juicy berries without being too heavy. Another hit.



I had a hard time leaving. It is a place you settle into and feel the comfort of home. Before I paid my bill I wondered to the wall of preserves to check out their creations. Owner, Kimberly Humby was restocking the shelves. She enticed me with the laborious love that goes into the Slow-Baked Applewood Smoked Tomato Paste (125 mL jar for $5.95) and the Ploughman's Branston Pickle (250 mL jar for $5.95).



Having just put away so many jars of tomato creations myself, I had to know every detail of the Tomato Paste. She indulged me. Considering all the work, I was starting to feel like $5.95 was a bit of a steal for that wee jar.

Kimberly shared with me that their preserves are made with vegetables from their own garden and also from farms nearby in the County - Laundry Farms on County Road 1, Hagerman's Farm between Bloomfield and Picton on the Loyalist Parkway, and Vicki's Veggies on Morrison Point Road, near Milford.

Ottawa Magazine recently did an interview with Lili Sullivan before the GMP competition. The week before, The Ottawa Citizen had an article entitled "Five Worth The Drive" focused on destinations for wine tasting. East & Main Bistro was included. It appears the word is getting out.

The food, wine and beautiful countryside make Prince Edward County a vacation retreat from the big city. There are so many great places to eat in the County, it is hard to cover them all in a weekend. If you can work East & Main Bistro into your itinerary, you won't be disappointed.



East & Main Bistro
270 Main Street
Wellington, Ontario
K0K 3L0
613.399.5420
Website: www.eastandmain.ca
Facebook: East & Main



Thurs to Mon: 12 - 2:30pm; 5:30 - 9 pm
Tues and Wed: CLOSED